Rockfax Description
One of the best of its grade on Dartmoor. Start on the left side of the tapering inset slab in the corner. Move up the left side of the slab - on polished rock and with little in the way of protection - to where it fades. Continue up the crack on the left wall to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The triangular slab in the corner between wind wall and mushroom wall.
West Country Climbs , I want a Pasty!
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JonHo | 13 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: If taken from the LH side, there isn't much gear until about 3-3.5m. If taken from the right there is a nice crack for cams. Some polish but not bad (compared to limestone). I enjoyed it. | ||
Show beta
βeta: If taken from the LH side, there isn't much gear until about 3-3.5m. If taken from the right there is a nice crack for cams. Some polish but not bad (compared to limestone). I enjoyed it. |
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Scrum102 | 4 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Lovely slab route, however a little polished in places. Nice gear placement on the right in the crack. We linked up with the routes that go out to to the left of the main slab and topped out right on the top of the tor. A must do route on the tor! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Lovely slab route, however a little polished in places. Nice gear placement on the right in the crack. We linked up with the routes that go out to to the left of the main slab and topped out right on the top of the tor. A must do route on the tor! |
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RichardN | 20 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: All the gear in the crack to the right (which you can reach from position in left crack or on the face) might aswell have a big flashing sign saying "place gear here". V. satisfying obvious gear placements should make this a breeze for most. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: All the gear in the crack to the right (which you can reach from position in left crack or on the face) might aswell have a big flashing sign saying "place gear here". V. satisfying obvious gear placements should make this a breeze for most. |
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Salvo1 | 19 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Only polished at the beginning. Nut placement to the left then cam placements to the right. Continued up the upper bulging walls finishing with a mantle | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Only polished at the beginning. Nut placement to the left then cam placements to the right. Continued up the upper bulging walls finishing with a mantle |
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Jennifnfe | 23 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: One bomber but non-obvious nut at 1/3 height then crap gear until the top of the slab, not ideal for a nervous diff leader - If you use the rockfax description, the (better protected) right hand crack is out of reach. Avoid and try the lovely VDiffs instead! | ||
Show beta
βeta: One bomber but non-obvious nut at 1/3 height then crap gear until the top of the slab, not ideal for a nervous diff leader - If you use the rockfax description, the (better protected) right hand crack is out of reach. Avoid and try the lovely VDiffs instead! |
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tehmarks | 8 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Confused by all the 'no gear', 'crap gear' comments; there's plenty of reasonable gear in the corner crack if you have a rack of cams. The polish isn't particularly troublesome either if you're precise with your feet. A good route, all in all. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Confused by all the 'no gear', 'crap gear' comments; there's plenty of reasonable gear in the corner crack if you have a rack of cams. The polish isn't particularly troublesome either if you're precise with your feet. A good route, all in all. |
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Mlewis | 8 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Followed the Rockfax description to the left, not a diff.... | ||
Show beta
βeta: Followed the Rockfax description to the left, not a diff.... |
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BDoc | 29 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Should really lose one or maybe both stars due to the polish. I´m sure this would have been fantastic a few years back! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Should really lose one or maybe both stars due to the polish. I´m sure this would have been fantastic a few years back! |
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Mlewis | 1 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Next to no protection until halfway up, although easy | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Next to no protection until halfway up, although easy |
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