Restricted Access
The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
Rockfax Description
Climb the crack past the overhang to a niche, where things start to ease. A bit of a one-move wonder. © Rockfax
FA. Johnny Woodward, Andrew Woodward 1976.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| smudge | 3 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Cleaned May 2022, now in good nick. Nice crux but not a balanced route. Still worthwhile. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Cleaned May 2022, now in good nick. Nice crux but not a balanced route. Still worthwhile. |
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| John H Bull | 3 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: You can climb direct past the rockfall scar, but it's very dirty at present. | βeta? | |
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βeta: You can climb direct past the rockfall scar, but it's very dirty at present. |
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| ABark | 8 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Good route, led it before the rockfall so I don't have any info on that. The crux is really good. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route, led it before the rockfall so I don't have any info on that. The crux is really good. |
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| ArnaudG | 13 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Big rockfall from the top flake on 10.6.6. Some loose rock remaining. Someone climbed the route post rockfall hand traversing R (?) before the last few moves with no change in the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Big rockfall from the top flake on 10.6.6. Some loose rock remaining. Someone climbed the route post rockfall hand traversing R (?) before the last few moves with no change in the grade. |
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| Ropeboy | 3 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A pleasant enough one move wonder, soft for the grade | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A pleasant enough one move wonder, soft for the grade |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Staden Quarry
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Delicate Cryme
Grade: E2 5b ***
(High Tor)