The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
Rockfax Description
Start as for Wipe Out, but continue carefully in the same line up the hairline crack to a creaky finish on the headwall. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson, Dave Williams 1979.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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smudge | 25 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Cleaned May 2023, in really good nick. RP placements cleaned out, well protected with micro wires. Very nice line, two and a half stars. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Cleaned May 2023, in really good nick. RP placements cleaned out, well protected with micro wires. Very nice line, two and a half stars. |
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Fiend | 10 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Mild for the grade if you're stacked up with RPs, Peenuts, Offsets, Swedges etc etc - the gear is there and although small is usually good. A really good route that is like a little slice of the Culm coast in the Peaks, with the delightful delicacies that entails. Only misses out on 3 stars due to the lesser start and finish. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Mild for the grade if you're stacked up with RPs, Peenuts, Offsets, Swedges etc etc - the gear is there and although small is usually good. A really good route that is like a little slice of the Culm coast in the Peaks, with the delightful delicacies that entails. Only misses out on 3 stars due to the lesser start and finish. |
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Frank the Husky | 25 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Soft rock? This is Staden, not Red Walls! The route can be laced with great RPs in which case...steady away! | ||
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βeta: Soft rock? This is Staden, not Red Walls! The route can be laced with great RPs in which case...steady away! |
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Katya | 24 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Well Protected by Bombproof RP's | βeta? | |
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βeta: Well Protected by Bombproof RP's |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)