UKC

Restricted Access

The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible. 
18m.

Rockfax Description
A bit of a gap-filler, but a decent one. Climb right up the shallow ramp until it is possible to reach a thin crack - small wires (the side-runners for Telescopic Demand). Follow this to easier ground and a finish as for Telescopic Demand. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Davies, Simon Nadin 1983.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kike Kikon 4 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Brass offsets very helpful
βeta?
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βeta: Brass offsets very helpful
smudge 3 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned 2022.
βeta?
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βeta: Cleaned 2022.
Alan James - Rockfax 25 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly the best 1-star route in the Peak.
βeta?
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βeta: Possibly the best 1-star route in the Peak.
Paul Evans 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: RPs useful. Otherwise spaced gear. Nice climbing, with surprising holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: RPs useful. Otherwise spaced gear. Nice climbing, with surprising holds.

Logged Ascents

205 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Staden Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 11 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hugo de Vries

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Turningstone Edge)

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