There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the tough thin crack then continue in the same line to the crux of the original. Move left (good small cams) then mantel to better holds and continue up the left-hand side of the face. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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AndyClifford | 15 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: The start is solid 5B, or 5C for the short. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The start is solid 5B, or 5C for the short. |
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Joe10 | 4 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: 5b for me.. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 5b for me.. |
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Iain Thow | 4 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: The starting crack just needs a bit of oomph, more 4c than 5c, & the top is about the same grade as the normal route. Going right at the top & following the edge is a lovely (but scary) 5a finish. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The starting crack just needs a bit of oomph, more 4c than 5c, & the top is about the same grade as the normal route. Going right at the top & following the edge is a lovely (but scary) 5a finish. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: Is the thin crack at the start really only 5a ?? I lost plenty of skin trying (and falling off) before finally giving up! The standard High Neb start on the left is *far* easier IMO... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Is the thin crack at the start really only 5a ?? I lost plenty of skin trying (and falling off) before finally giving up! The standard High Neb start on the left is *far* easier IMO... |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)