Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A superb roof climb; high in the grade. Climb a shallow groove to below the roof. Place solid runners then head out via good flakes to the lip. Getting established round the lip is the crux.
Linking this with the Right-hand is Quietus Middle Leg, E3 6a. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1954.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , 2019 Targets , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , SUMC's Steep Testpieces , Peaks hard stuff , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Tom's crack funtimes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Dunc's ticklist , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Original and best stanage extremes , Fav Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stanley | 18 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Followed Joey up. Absolutely mad. Felt ok until trying to pull out of the roof. Mad. Way beyond me. Massive respect to anyone who ticks this! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Followed Joey up. Absolutely mad. Felt ok until trying to pull out of the roof. Mad. Way beyond me. Massive respect to anyone who ticks this! |
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| keepguessing | 8 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: A little grovelly but I thought fairly straight forward compared to jeepers creepers. really thin crack, definitely easier for those with tiny hands, a bit grovelly getting over the lip proper but still quality old school climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A little grovelly but I thought fairly straight forward compared to jeepers creepers. really thin crack, definitely easier for those with tiny hands, a bit grovelly getting over the lip proper but still quality old school climbing. |
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| Al Evans | 11 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Never managed it clean without a rest, deffo 6a for me. Loads of 6a's I find easier than this. I wouldnt mind E1 6a though. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Never managed it clean without a rest, deffo 6a for me. Loads of 6a's I find easier than this. I wouldnt mind E1 6a though. |
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| shane ohly | 11 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easier than i expected having put off trying it for far to long! Don't use the left crack though, just two simple hand jams on the right crack will take you to the top! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Easier than i expected having put off trying it for far to long! Don't use the left crack though, just two simple hand jams on the right crack will take you to the top! |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well protected, but desperately hard work to unlock the sequence from the lip of the overhang. Full marks to anyone who onsights this classic (I didn't!) | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Well protected, but desperately hard work to unlock the sequence from the lip of the overhang. Full marks to anyone who onsights this classic (I didn't!) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Suspense
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lawrencefield)