Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The centre of the slab leads boldly to the break where a crucial mantel gains a standing position. A final difficult move up the pebbly slab remains. A right-hand variation is very inferior at E2 5c/6a depending on reach. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Bancroft 1978.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Pete's Peak Treats , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chad123 | 27 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fun route, and yes definitely easier the taller you are, the break is not a good as you think it's going to be at some points! Mantle crux is well protected though, I had to thutch and wiggle to get the mantle sorted! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Fun route, and yes definitely easier the taller you are, the break is not a good as you think it's going to be at some points! Mantle crux is well protected though, I had to thutch and wiggle to get the mantle sorted! |
||||
| IOAN D | 28 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: brilliant route,exellent gear. outstanding. really deserves 3 stars!! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: brilliant route,exellent gear. outstanding. really deserves 3 stars!! |
||||
| Alun | 26 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This route only really has three moves: 1) getting hands in the break 2) getting feet in the break and 3) getting hands on the top. If you're tall enough (I'm not), you don't have to do move (3)! Personally while move (3) is perhaps the technical crux I thought the hardest bit was move (1), cos it's a bit tenous and it's a nasty tumble if you come off. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: This route only really has three moves: 1) getting hands in the break 2) getting feet in the break and 3) getting hands on the top. If you're tall enough (I'm not), you don't have to do move (3)! Personally while move (3) is perhaps the technical crux I thought the hardest bit was move (1), cos it's a bit tenous and it's a nasty tumble if you come off. |
||||
| goi.ashmore | 4 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: It used to be a bit gnarly before someone dug out the break in the late 80s - there was no gear when I did it in about '88. I seem to remember the crux was the start, but then again I was scared on the top. Nothing to do with the last move, more to do with the fact that this big Alsatian put his head over the top with a large stone in it. I think he wanted to play and I was worried he'd drop it. Funnily enough it was with Steve Bancroft.. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: It used to be a bit gnarly before someone dug out the break in the late 80s - there was no gear when I did it in about '88. I seem to remember the crux was the start, but then again I was scared on the top. Nothing to do with the last move, more to do with the fact that this big Alsatian put his head over the top with a large stone in it. I think he wanted to play and I was worried he'd drop it. Funnily enough it was with Steve Bancroft.. |
||||
| Cottie | 25 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm over 6 foot my second is just over 5'4" - strangely we both disagreed on the technical grade. Both agreed, however, that it's a great route. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I'm over 6 foot my second is just over 5'4" - strangely we both disagreed on the technical grade. Both agreed, however, that it's a great route. |
||||
| Duncan I | 4 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: 5c for the tall, whichever finish you choose. I'm tall and can't climb 6a. Nice rest at the break as well so not that sustained. Cracking route tho'. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 5c for the tall, whichever finish you choose. I'm tall and can't climb 6a. Nice rest at the break as well so not that sustained. Cracking route tho'. |
||||
| Furzy Sleight | 18 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent typical grit at its best! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Excellent typical grit at its best! |
||||
| ian bryant | 2 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: my first 6a lead and a worthy one, very enjoyable and satisfying. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: my first 6a lead and a worthy one, very enjoyable and satisfying. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Final Judgement
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Kinder Downfall)