UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

24m.

Rockfax Description
A wandering classic. Head up the unprotected 'question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is tricky to enter (good gear) and leads to an exposed slab. Head right to a ledge and a finish on jugs. Walk off right or finish up the short wall behind to reach the cliff top and the moor. © Rockfax

FA. Fergus Graham 1922.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , King of VDiff , Chatsworth to Bamford , CUMC Ticklist , Stanage Starred VDiffs , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Flying Buttress Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Welcome to CUMC , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Stanage 'Difficults' , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , The Alf Bridge Challenge , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Stanage Ticklist , Dewimpification , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Diffage Comp , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
MattyDredge 27 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Polished but still grippy enough.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Polished but still grippy enough.
PaulJepson 3 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 'Unprotected slab' has plenty enough gear if you have cams.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 'Unprotected slab' has plenty enough gear if you have cams.
Lsuze 2 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure what the comments are on about RE polished - absolutely fine, super grippy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure what the comments are on about RE polished - absolutely fine, super grippy
ulastopka 15 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much.
springfall2008 1 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs
Show beta
βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs
SuePearson 31 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD
aztec_bums 22 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun
VS4b 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile.
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile.
Sam and will 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr!
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do...
Nutkey 31 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected.
victim of mathematics 9 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard.

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 593
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 578
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cracker Jack

Grade: HVD ***
(Wildcat)

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