The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A well-positioned and exposed route that finishes atop the needle. Start low down on the front face amongst the trees, beneath a very short boot-width layback crack.
1) 7m. Climb the crack to a ledge with some big trees on it and a large low spike. This pitch can be bypassed from the ledge.
2) 20m. From the right-hand side of the low spike, climb the slab to below the buttress proper and continue up a crack system just left of the arete to a steeper final section that eases at a good spike hold. Swing right to a stance and tree belay.
3) 12m. Climb above the tree for 2m on good holds until horizontal moves left around the arete (under a nose) access a corner/groove. Climb this easily to the needle. © Rockfax
FA. Jim Simpson 1949.
West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Star Diffs , Cream first! , By May… , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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PaulJepson | 25 Mar |
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βeta: Tree belay is dead af. Use the many surrounding cracks to build your own belay. The rotten remains need cutting off really. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tree belay is dead af. Use the many surrounding cracks to build your own belay. The rotten remains need cutting off really. |
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EdJHarley | 25 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Very slippery when wet! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very slippery when wet! |
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Hal Mungbean | 4 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Tree belay P2 v dead and rattling. Easy to back-up with decent wires and cams above and left. | ||
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βeta: Tree belay P2 v dead and rattling. Easy to back-up with decent wires and cams above and left. |
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gillyml | 13 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Another great route for for blowing out the post lockdown cobwebs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Another great route for for blowing out the post lockdown cobwebs. |
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Gilster | 14 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Tree belay v rotten | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tree belay v rotten |
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JohnHutch | 14 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Tough for V diff! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tough for V diff! |
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BrightEyes | 27 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: A group of us climbed together. I seconded the second pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A group of us climbed together. I seconded the second pitch. |
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Monk | 11 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: I combined the first and second pitches (couldn't see any good reason not to!). A very pleasant climb, that was made better by doing the top pitch of Camel rather than the scrappy 3rd pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I combined the first and second pitches (couldn't see any good reason not to!). A very pleasant climb, that was made better by doing the top pitch of Camel rather than the scrappy 3rd pitch. |
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Tom Last | 23 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: We skipped the first pitch as it's just a rank looking mossy crack and slab and you can just walk to the top of it, making it feel a bit pointless. You might as well link the last two pitches as belaying at the tree actually produces more drag as the rope runs round the corner. Better as a single pitch route imho; you still get the best of the climbing and you save time. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: We skipped the first pitch as it's just a rank looking mossy crack and slab and you can just walk to the top of it, making it feel a bit pointless. You might as well link the last two pitches as belaying at the tree actually produces more drag as the rope runs round the corner. Better as a single pitch route imho; you still get the best of the climbing and you save time. |
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Grade: VD ***
(Elender Cove)