The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
Fun and varied climbing that builds to a head-spinning finish on the summit of the pinnacle. Start below a chimney crack at the foot of the ridge, where the approach path begins to drop down to the main area.
1) 8m. Bridge steeply up the chimney to a large ledge.
2) 9m. Scramble easily to a belay ledge under a vertical wall with a crack in it.
3) 13m. Climb the crack to another ledge. Continue up the arete and move left to a ledge and belay below a vertical crack.
4) 10m. Make a committing step right to the arete and move up to the top of the pinnacle. Climb down and bridge across to a short finishing wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
It is possible to run pitches together for convenience.
Start below a small chimney, 5 metres left of Mucky Gully.
1) 3a. Bridge the chimney. Belay.
2) 3a. Climb over blocks to a ledge, and a belay.
3) 3a. Move out right, to an airy wall overlooking the gully. Climb up this wall,
then move back left, to a ledge. Belay
4) 3a. Move back right, climb up the wall, go around the pinnacle (to the right), and step across the gap, to the top of Mucky Gully, and a short wall. Climb this wall. VARIATION HARD SEVERE 4A
3a) 4a. Move out left from the ledge, climb direct to another ledge, from where
the summit block is reached.
West Country Climbs , University of Exeter must tick's , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Star Diffs , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do!
User | Date | Notes | ||
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hp8g12 | 23 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Start at P3 to avoid a slippy, greasy first pitch! (P2 isn’t a pitch!) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Start at P3 to avoid a slippy, greasy first pitch! (P2 isn’t a pitch!) |
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LeggingsQueen | 8 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Wobbly boulder on the right at belay point for 3rd pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wobbly boulder on the right at belay point for 3rd pitch |
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Paddy_nolan | 14 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Take a big cam for the chimney at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Take a big cam for the chimney at the top |
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Mlewis | 26 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Lead 2 and 4. Great route, however 2nd pitch was more of a scramble. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead 2 and 4. Great route, however 2nd pitch was more of a scramble. |
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Grade: VD ***
(Elender Cove)