Rockfax Description
The central corner that rises from the overhung ledge at the base of High Cliff is a stunning line. Technically reasonable but the commitment required earns it the grade. The nature of the climbing and the situation is very serious and this is not a place to get into trouble. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner.
2) 6a, 20m. From the right-hand side of the platform, climb the right-hand of two converging cracks past a short, hard section to better holds beneath the roof. Committing moves leftwards gain a precarious rest in a chimney on the lip of the roof. Move up this and its left wall to a small stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb the main corner, moving left around a bulge, to a good ledge and belay.
4) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a faultline leads up to the top. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , UK Extreme Corners , UK Lonely Leads , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West in Extremis
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Cheesewring Quarry)