The best climbing faces are available to climbers but access is not permitted to the right of ‘Graveyard Gate’, (with the exclusion of ‘Meet Thy Creator’) to help protect rare plants.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please do not block the road to the crag - the land is shared with the Uphill boat yard and access may be harmed by inconsiderate parking.
Rockfax Description
A high quality pitch that relies mostly on well spaced fixed protection. The route follows the tall white wall left of the central broken corner. From the initial peg on The Enlightenment, pull up to it then step right and move up to a bolt. Make hard fingery moves to the next bolt and then, with little respite, make some insecure reaches to a positive diagonal break and good wires. Move right and up to a small ledge and a rest. Climb the wild upper wall on much better holds past a good thread and a bolt. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb easily to a peg in a break at 7 metres. Step right and climb the very sustained, crimpy wall, past two bolts, to the main break. Step up into a shallow groove and move up to a thread in orange rock. Continue to a bolt and make some hard moves past this to good holds and an easier finish.
West Country Climbs , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , Local Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
fammer | 9 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a hold between the third bolt and the break, makes that crux section a bit harder | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off a hold between the third bolt and the break, makes that crux section a bit harder |
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)