In a UKC exclusive, we can report that Speed Climbing will be replaced by Slow Climbing at the Los Angeles Olympics in 2028.

The change comes after resistance from the 'higher ups', who claim that the presence of speed climbing at the Olympics has had a negative effect on viewership of the 100 metre final, since it's no longer the fastest event.

Sue Donim, of International Olympic Committee, told us 'For more than a century the fastest Olympic event, the crowning glory of the Olympic games, has been the 100 metres. Think back to the 100 metres at the 2016 Rio Olympics - who won? Usain Bolt in 9.81 seconds in the men's, and Elaine Thompson in 10.71 seconds in the women's, everyone knows that!'

'However, ask me who won the 100 metres at the Toyko Olympics and I can't even remember. My brain just tells me "Alberto Gines Lopez in 6.42 seconds, Aleksandra Mirosław in 6.84 seconds", it's like the 100 metres didn't even happen! Wait, are you sure it did happen in Tokyo? All I remember was the speed climbing, whoa, that was great! I'm really rooting for JinBao Long in Paris, I think he's got a sub-five second run in him!'

Exact rules for the slow climbing are still in development, but some details have been confirmed already. Where the current speed wall is fifteen metres high, has a total of thirty one holds, overhangs at a consistent angle of 5°, and is around F6b in difficulty, the slow wall will be thirty metres in height, have a total of ninety holds, and be set at an angle of -12.5°, allowing for no hands rests, if required. The difficulty will be lowered from French 6b to a British Trad Grade of roughly VS.

Moreover, the holds will be completely redesigned to accurately replicate large holds found outside on the rock, complete with all the features they contain, including breaks, cracks, and pockets. Whilst the route will still be climbed on autobelay, the climber must take fifteen pieces of traditional climbing gear with them from a pre-approved list.

Climbers will be allowed to take as long as they need to place gear whilst on the wall, and can place the gear wherever they like. However, all fifteen pieces of gear must be placed on the route, and once a competitor touches a piece of gear, they must make a gear placement before moving on to the next hold. 

Judges will be watching closely to ensure that competitors struggling to find good placements are genuinely struggling, rather than pretending to struggle in order to prolong their time on the wall, which is strictly against the rules. 

Early tests of the new discipline are ongoing, having started on Thursday morning. UKC will update this news report as and when the slowest competitors finish the route.