UKC

Anyone got any personal recommendations for good harder multipitch routes around Briancon/Ailefroide? I have the 'Briancon Climbs' guidebook but there's not a lot of description, and not a lot logged on UKC.

Perfect routes would be 3+ pitches with most pitches 6c-7c. Bonus if they're steep and exposed.

Thanks!

Hi Ed, 

you need to get a different guidebook, Briancon climbs is the sports routes and some of the sports style routes. 

you need Oisans Nouveau Oisans Sauvage by Cambon, it covers more of the multi pitch routes. also so you know the star system in it is not quality but gear 1 star is fully equipped, 4 fully trad etc. 
 

not sure if you can get it in the uk. if you get it I can recommend some routes for you. 

Cheers 

Thanks for that - I'll see if I can get my hands on a copy

Think I’ve just ordered the wrong guide then. 
mum hoping to get to Aiguille de Sialouze and La Meije. 
 

which guide is best for these?

Hi, 

So its the same guidebook I mentioned above. But I forgot to say it comes in two versions.

Livre est which is the outer around Briançon and eastern Écrins, so covering Sialouze. There is a ouest version for the western side of the Écrins and that includes la Meije. 

Hope that makes sense

Do you think I should buy both?

I want long rock routes (8 or more pitches). Not too many bolts about 7a/7b. Maybe 3 routes in total. Do you think one book would have enough at that sort of grade? Any recommendations? 

Im cramming it into a family holiday so don’t have time to search things out, I just want 3 or 4 bangers to get on, have a blasting then head off to the beach with the kids the week after. 

I couldn't find the cambon guides in the UK at the moment. I think they are out of print??

where are you going to be based? I would just buy that guide. each guide will have more than enough routes in to get some classics out of your trip.

In terms of bolts most of the routes in the grade your after will be mainly bolted, just the nature of the rock. 

off the top of my head for Briancon side 

Tomahawk on tete de Gaulent 7a+

Une infine patience on the Tenailles it 7a but you miss the 7a pitch at the top (cant be done), But some of the 6b and 6c pitches are more like 7a ( not just me saying that). Still a nice route. 

Ranxerox on the set d'aval  7a+ a bit longer than you asked for 650M and a bit polished in places but a classic?

I am not sure if you can get it in the uk? 

Cambon passed away a few years ago, the guide has been taken over by a group. There is a newish version (est) a year or so ago out and is available in all the shops here and in France, 

I don't think Cambon and the new team ever pushed outside France. I know the climb Europe site tried to talk to Cambon about stocking them but it didn't happen. 

Perfect that's great info thanks. I'll try and get a copy myself when I'm out there and stop printing so many topos from camptocamp.

This year the Danish Alpine Club will hold their annual summer meet in Ailefroide. Do you know if the guidebook will be available in a local store there?

Hi, yes it should be available, both that one and the Ailefroide guide its self. There  are two shops in Ailefroide that stock it. and two in Vallouise. 

This is great thanks. 

If you get stuck, I have the guidebook 

Tete d'Aval.

https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/1331665/fr/aiguille-de-sialouze-unchi-mak...