UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Sit-start from the left-hand end of the shelf under Hamper's Hang, move out to the hanging arête before making big bumps to the lip and mantel to finish.

FA. Graham Oxnard 21/Jun/2020.

Ticklists

All of Stanage Far Right , Peak Boudering 3 Star 7a/+'s , The peak shortlist

Feedback

User Date Notes
oxocube 16 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: In reply to person below Hampers direct climbs from the middle of the shelf directly through the middle of the lip a couple of metres to the right of this according to all the guides and doesn’t go to the hanging arete, they don’t actually share any moves https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ht496hyHApY In retrospect this is a fair bit harder than hampers direct which is soft for 7A and is probably more like 7A+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In reply to person below Hampers direct climbs from the middle of the shelf directly through the middle of the lip a couple of metres to the right of this according to all the guides and doesn’t go to the hanging arete, they don’t actually share any moves https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ht496hyHApY In retrospect this is a fair bit harder than hampers direct which is soft for 7A and is probably more like 7A+
Graeme Hammond 12 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Video just seems to be very similar to Hampers Direct from memory. Is this actually a different problem or a reto claim of an existing problem??
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Video just seems to be very similar to Hampers Direct from memory. Is this actually a different problem or a reto claim of an existing problem??
tomsmartacus 9 Jan, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: El_eaton’s beta seems to be misleading as it seems to be “did hamper’s mantle but traversed the lip...”
Show beta
βeta: El_eaton’s beta seems to be misleading as it seems to be “did hamper’s mantle but traversed the lip...”
el_eaton 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Started in middle of shelf, then went left hand to the good right hand Crimp shown in video. Felt similarly 7a this way
Show beta
βeta: Started in middle of shelf, then went left hand to the good right hand Crimp shown in video. Felt similarly 7a this way

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Narcissus

Grade: f7A ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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