UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

28m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb girdle, the best of several on the cliff.
1) 5b, 12m. From Sceptic swing along the break to Nectar. Continue to an awkward hanging-stance on Orang-outang.
2) 5c, 16m. Continue swinging to an awkward move up a diagonal overlap to the break. Finish up the hard roof crack. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft, John Allen 1975.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Extreme Girdle , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak Traverses

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 20 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: brushed the top of the 2nd pitch under the roof and dug out the anchor placements should be good to go when it cools down a little again.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: brushed the top of the 2nd pitch under the roof and dug out the anchor placements should be good to go when it cools down a little again.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 12 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely fair at E3 - not a particularly hard one, but condierably harder than Orangutang. Personally I'd recommend The Messner Link-up. It's like the "Fern Hill of Stanage!" No harder than 5c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely fair at E3 - not a particularly hard one, but condierably harder than Orangutang. Personally I'd recommend The Messner Link-up. It's like the "Fern Hill of Stanage!" No harder than 5c
simonrichardson 16 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Hmmm. Very hard for E2 in my opinion, climbed around same time as Soyuz, the Asp, Black Hawk Bastion and other E2/3's in Yorks. Was harder than all of them!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hmmm. Very hard for E2 in my opinion, climbed around same time as Soyuz, the Asp, Black Hawk Bastion and other E2/3's in Yorks. Was harder than all of them!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Dark Side of the Moon

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Kinder Downfall)

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