Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.
Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 15 May to 13 June
Reason: Other
Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
Loop along the curving crack then swing right on jams past the arete to finish up Sandy Crack, which some find to be the crux! © Rockfax
FA. Al Austin 1958.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Revenge List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ULMC Classics , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Bamford Edge , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Bamford
User | Date | Notes | ||
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milanboez | 10 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: What a fight!!! Sarah fell of the crux 3 times, lowered off then I had a go. Started raining as I went up. Muscled through the crux to the top of the curving crack - was getting a bit wet at this point and slipped. Fortunately bomber gear everywhere. Found getting round the corner the hardest bit until I found a foot hold. Top thrutchy section was awful - not helped by being soaked but still awful in the dry I bet. Look forward to being back in the dry and getting a proper clean lead. Very hard in the grade despite some great jams and underclings! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: What a fight!!! Sarah fell of the crux 3 times, lowered off then I had a go. Started raining as I went up. Muscled through the crux to the top of the curving crack - was getting a bit wet at this point and slipped. Fortunately bomber gear everywhere. Found getting round the corner the hardest bit until I found a foot hold. Top thrutchy section was awful - not helped by being soaked but still awful in the dry I bet. Look forward to being back in the dry and getting a proper clean lead. Very hard in the grade despite some great jams and underclings! |
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Cragstrong | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: I got my cam stuck in the Curving Crack on the far left on 19/09/20. It is a DMM dragon Cam size 6 (big silver one). If someone manages to remove it and sees this feedback, please return it to me - I would be super grateful! Contact me via [email protected]. Also note that both chock stones at the end of the route are loose and potentially dangerous if they come free. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I got my cam stuck in the Curving Crack on the far left on 19/09/20. It is a DMM dragon Cam size 6 (big silver one). If someone manages to remove it and sees this feedback, please return it to me - I would be super grateful! Contact me via [email protected]. Also note that both chock stones at the end of the route are loose and potentially dangerous if they come free. |
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George Frisby | 2 Dec, 2019 |
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βeta: Top chockstone in crack has broken in two and is very loose, belayers should stand well out the way and they should probably be removed if possible. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Top chockstone in crack has broken in two and is very loose, belayers should stand well out the way and they should probably be removed if possible. |
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wilkie14c | 4 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Can be scary for your second, use double ropes, but just clip one, then when the second climbs, the rope you never clipped will be above the second at all times to prevent a big swing! should br 2* but the groty finish spoils it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Can be scary for your second, use double ropes, but just clip one, then when the second climbs, the rope you never clipped will be above the second at all times to prevent a big swing! should br 2* but the groty finish spoils it! |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 29 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: A great little route, which might be just as commiting to second as it is to lead. Fine hand and fist-jamming opportunties abound! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great little route, which might be just as commiting to second as it is to lead. Fine hand and fist-jamming opportunties abound! |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)