UKC

Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The enticing hand-jamming crack is a swine to enter from the left (steep) or right (a bit easier). Very pleasant above with a big bucket finish. © Rockfax

FA. Hugh Banner 1961.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , Bamford Edge , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 10 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Start wasn't as hard as expected when I worked it out. Rest of the route was harder than expected! Pumpy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Start wasn't as hard as expected when I worked it out. Rest of the route was harder than expected! Pumpy.
mountainremedy 15 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: @jonl that’s all well and good if you can reach!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: @jonl that’s all well and good if you can reach!
Paul Tomo 4 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Once pass the hard start the rest is nice and easy and i would say the start is a easy 5bish. I like Randy's wall better.Paul Tomo
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Once pass the hard start the rest is nice and easy and i would say the start is a easy 5bish. I like Randy's wall better.Paul Tomo
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Found the start desperate (& I like jammimg!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the start desperate (& I like jammimg!)
nate 12 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: No way this is 4c 5a/b (start) is fair. Again a good solo/problem with one move at the top to make you think...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No way this is 4c 5a/b (start) is fair. Again a good solo/problem with one move at the top to make you think...
Nick Mitchell 5 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice little route. Start is 5a-ish, the rest is very enjoyable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice little route. Start is 5a-ish, the rest is very enjoyable.
jim jones 9 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Certainly not 5b, maybe 4c 5a at a push.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Certainly not 5b, maybe 4c 5a at a push.
JonL 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route. No need to struggle; reach up to ledge to left of crack and heel-hook ledge to right of crack. Pull up and drop right knee - reach up again and difficulties over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route. No need to struggle; reach up to ledge to left of crack and heel-hook ledge to right of crack. Pull up and drop right knee - reach up again and difficulties over.
SteveM 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The starting moves can be 5b, but it's only 5a with a direct approach.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The starting moves can be 5b, but it's only 5a with a direct approach.
andybuckley 4 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Just did this one in the dark and cold with a knackered head-torch so suspect it wasn't 5b! A wonderful little route, though: marvellous jugginess after the start and good gear all the way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just did this one in the dark and cold with a knackered head-torch so suspect it wasn't 5b! A wonderful little route, though: marvellous jugginess after the start and good gear all the way.

Logged Ascents

1170 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bamford Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 167 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 141
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 136
Votes cast 124
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lean Man's Superdirect

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

Loading Notifications...