Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.
Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 15 May to 13 June
Reason: Other
Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
The enticing hand-jamming crack is a swine to enter from the left (steep) or right (a bit easier). Very pleasant above with a big bucket finish. © Rockfax
FA. Hugh Banner 1961.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , Bamford Edge , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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milanboez | 10 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Start wasn't as hard as expected when I worked it out. Rest of the route was harder than expected! Pumpy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Start wasn't as hard as expected when I worked it out. Rest of the route was harder than expected! Pumpy. |
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mountainremedy | 15 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: @jonl that’s all well and good if you can reach! | βeta? | |
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βeta: @jonl that’s all well and good if you can reach! |
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Paul Tomo | 4 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Once pass the hard start the rest is nice and easy and i would say the start is a easy 5bish. I like Randy's wall better.Paul Tomo | βeta? | |
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βeta: Once pass the hard start the rest is nice and easy and i would say the start is a easy 5bish. I like Randy's wall better.Paul Tomo |
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Iain Thow | 17 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Found the start desperate (& I like jammimg!) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found the start desperate (& I like jammimg!) |
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nate | 12 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: No way this is 4c 5a/b (start) is fair. Again a good solo/problem with one move at the top to make you think... | βeta? | |
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βeta: No way this is 4c 5a/b (start) is fair. Again a good solo/problem with one move at the top to make you think... |
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Nick Mitchell | 5 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Nice little route. Start is 5a-ish, the rest is very enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice little route. Start is 5a-ish, the rest is very enjoyable. |
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jim jones | 9 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Certainly not 5b, maybe 4c 5a at a push. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Certainly not 5b, maybe 4c 5a at a push. |
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JonL | 22 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Lovely route. No need to struggle; reach up to ledge to left of crack and heel-hook ledge to right of crack. Pull up and drop right knee - reach up again and difficulties over. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely route. No need to struggle; reach up to ledge to left of crack and heel-hook ledge to right of crack. Pull up and drop right knee - reach up again and difficulties over. |
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SteveM | 9 May, 2005 |
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βeta: The starting moves can be 5b, but it's only 5a with a direct approach. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The starting moves can be 5b, but it's only 5a with a direct approach. |
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andybuckley | 4 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: Just did this one in the dark and cold with a knackered head-torch so suspect it wasn't 5b! A wonderful little route, though: marvellous jugginess after the start and good gear all the way. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Just did this one in the dark and cold with a knackered head-torch so suspect it wasn't 5b! A wonderful little route, though: marvellous jugginess after the start and good gear all the way. |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)