Restricted Access
The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.
The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.
The line of TDS has been climbed with fewer rules at hard 8b; Star Killer Base.
Chris Savage 03/May/2010.
Ticklists
Cheddar Eight's , South West 8's , UK 8a and up , 8s with stars near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A Longleat Boulderer | 30 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Had a quick session with Jamie. It’s not the easiest to work out what is in and what is not. So I went home and did some digging. For any future suitors… I spent some time having discussions with various of the below and associated folks and concluded the route via the original series of holds as climbed by Chris is unrepeated. It seems all ascents bar the FA add a hold out right which makes for a great 7B+ sequence. Use of this hold has settled as the de facto Death Star method. However Chris’ original beta did not use this (with hand nor foot) and blasted straight up the middle to the big slot from the tufa and little slot at somewhere around 7C+. This involves a massive reach. And may be impossible for most. But a good challenge for someone tall. Finally Death Star climbs directly to the obvious undercut block via a still droppable sequence. I’ve uploaded a pic with the holds marked through the crux. Green for Chris’ originals. And orange for the hold that is now considered part of the route as described above. Either way. Great moves! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Had a quick session with Jamie. It’s not the easiest to work out what is in and what is not. So I went home and did some digging. For any future suitors… I spent some time having discussions with various of the below and associated folks and concluded the route via the original series of holds as climbed by Chris is unrepeated. It seems all ascents bar the FA add a hold out right which makes for a great 7B+ sequence. Use of this hold has settled as the de facto Death Star method. However Chris’ original beta did not use this (with hand nor foot) and blasted straight up the middle to the big slot from the tufa and little slot at somewhere around 7C+. This involves a massive reach. And may be impossible for most. But a good challenge for someone tall. Finally Death Star climbs directly to the obvious undercut block via a still droppable sequence. I’ve uploaded a pic with the holds marked through the crux. Green for Chris’ originals. And orange for the hold that is now considered part of the route as described above. Either way. Great moves! |
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