Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A great route that doesn't see too much traffic. Start as for Grotto. Go straight up from the pyramidal spike and up the crack until you can step out left onto a sloping scoop of rock. Follow this out left to a flake-crack through a roof. Just above is the belay on the original. Most continue on up the rib above the belay in one rope length, finishing just left of Christmas Curry. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fantastic little route. It is possible to abseil to the base from the top on a doubled over 60m rope, so you don't have to do the approach up Christmas Curry.
The route starts from the lefthand end of the ledge by the large flake belay on Christmas Curry. Move left up a small triangular slab to near the arete and climb the crack just to its right up. After 8m or so you will see a large roof over to the left with a scoop leading below it. Climb across the scoop and gain the crack through the left side of the roof and follow it to where you almost join Christmas Curry. Then head up and left to regain an arete and follow this up, when the arete runs out carry on direct to the top.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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FANTAN B
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig y Llam)