Rockfax Description
The most popular route on the buttress takes a strong line up grooves between the two blocks of roofs. Steep and sustained climbing on generally big holds. Abseil to a ledge below the central section of the crag. From the ledge, move up to the wide chimney capped by a roof. Move left below this via some undercuts to a good jug. Head up the slab to a groove that leads up to and through a roof onto another slab. Move up to the final roof and climb it direct via a long reach that often falls short of the jug you were aiming for - dig deep and go for it again. © Rockfax
Harry Smith, C T Jones 07/Aug/1956.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Glen Stidever | 29 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Went left up through the big V groove one overhang below the top = desperate!! Just about squirmed out somehow in some insane crab motion. Stay right!! | ||
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βeta: Went left up through the big V groove one overhang below the top = desperate!! Just about squirmed out somehow in some insane crab motion. Stay right!! |
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tomlake | 7 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Tried going up the left hand side of the flake/block, bloody hard, go round the right! | ||
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βeta: Tried going up the left hand side of the flake/block, bloody hard, go round the right! |
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Trwyn y Gorlech (Lleyn))