Rockfax Description
Excellent protection on this fine crack. It has been attempted more than once in mistake for its neighbour, Winking Crack. Scramble up to a good ledge below a short wall.
1) 6b, 38m. Go up a short easy groove. Climb the left arete to a small ledge beneath the crack. Follow the crack - 2 pegs - to a shake out just short of the chimney above. Climb the chimney.
2) 4c, 26m. Slabs and vegetated ledges lead to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Excellent protection ensures the popularity of this fine crack. Scramble up right from the path to a nut belay in a corner.
1 120' 6b Climb the left arĂȘte to a small ledge beneath the crack. Follow the crack, 2 PRs, to a shake out just short of the chimney above. Climb the chimney.
2 90' 4c Slabs and vegetated ledges lead to the top.
D Durkan, P Sandell 1970 (aid route The Nod),
FFA J Moran, P Williams, J Sonczak, 1984
North Wales Rock Graded List , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Si Witcher | 28 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: 1x drilled/glued pegbolt added as a runner | βeta? | |
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βeta: 1x drilled/glued pegbolt added as a runner |
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George_Surf | 22 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Good ab-station at the top with some big rope and rings. Only 1 peg but its (I think) pretty good | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good ab-station at the top with some big rope and rings. Only 1 peg but its (I think) pretty good |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)