Rockfax Description
A pleasant route with a frustrating stopper move. Start under the corner below the right-hand end of the half-height ledge.
1) 5a, 28m. Ascend the corner to the half-height ledge.
2) 5c 28m. From the middle of the ledge, climb up to a tight groove. Climb this to a hard more where it kinks right. Shuffle right along the sloping ledge to continuation groove above. This is tricky to start but eases as you get higher. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
P1. 5a The right facing corner crack is excellant, sustained and a bit harder than it looks
P2. 5c Harder but not as good as the first pitch. Climb up from the middle of the ledge to a left-facing groove (the peg has gone, but there are wire placements) and then a second groove to the top
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , UK Extreme Corners , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Brimham55 | 5 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: The difficulties at the start lead to a flake, behind which is yet another firmly wedged RP with an orange ToughTag. I couldn't get the piece out so thank to Evie someone or other. It's very welcome. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The difficulties at the start lead to a flake, behind which is yet another firmly wedged RP with an orange ToughTag. I couldn't get the piece out so thank to Evie someone or other. It's very welcome. |
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Dexter JW | 16 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Helpfully replaced the previously stuck wire with a new one, you're welcome world (15/05/21) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Helpfully replaced the previously stuck wire with a new one, you're welcome world (15/05/21) |
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Dizz | 17 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Top pitch is very bold without it's original pegs! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top pitch is very bold without it's original pegs! |
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Mike D | 3 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Take some microwires for P2's crux corner; the stuck wire is long gone. | ||
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βeta: Take some microwires for P2's crux corner; the stuck wire is long gone. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)