UKC

On the right side of the bouldering wall from a sitting start begin with your right hand utilising a guppy side-pull on the sloping downward ledge, with the left hand on a small underling crimp side-pull just under the break, while pressing the left foot on a positive rounded edge that is between than hand holds and smearing the right on a wee slab low down. Pull on and make a big move up with the left hand into the scooped dish / slopey ledge, then switch feet and bring the left up onto a good foot hold and match hands. Next, bring the right foot up to a big rounded edge under the break and then move up and out with the right hand to catch an awkward undercling - under the small roof - with the thumb and palm, and then twist the hand inwards to press against the hold to improve balance. From here, bring the left foot up to a small edge and then palm against the left facing wall with the right hand to reach up to gain a very small and sharp two finger crimp at the right hand side of the roof. Once gained, bring a left foot up to match with the left hand in the scooped dish and then reach up with the left hand to a small undercling side pull, and move up with difficulty to gain a small downward and rounded edge with the right foot. From here, throw the left hand up and out to a small slopey crimp and then flag with the right foot to help gain a small but positive right hand crimp next to the left handhold. Finally, step up with the left foot into a small pocket and make a fairly dynamic move to the jug above, stand on the poor crimp on the corner with the right foot and match hands to finish.

The first recorded non-traverse boulder problem at Ley which climbs an interesting and challenging line, which is both technical and powerful: the problem is aptly named. The climb can be made easier from a standing start where you begin with two hands in the scooped dish / slopey ledge (6c+).

Craig MacLeod 19/Apr/2021.

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User Date Notes
BusyBlair 4 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First project of 2020, was made more challenging by using the start for Quickbeam to reach the sloper, before the thumb-press undercling.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First project of 2020, was made more challenging by using the start for Quickbeam to reach the sloper, before the thumb-press undercling.

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Route of Interest
Sharkskin Traverse

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Glen Lednock Boulders)

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