Climbs 24
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 656m a.s.l
Faces S
John Arran on the solid jamming crack of Le blob (7a) at Roc des Abeilles © Anne Arran
The Roc des Abeilles is an impressive, yellow-and-grey limestone fin with some leaning trad-style cracks (although they are bolted) and undulating, dimpled walls offering grades from 5+ to 8b. The geological forces involved in upending the cliff (and the whole of the Plantaurel ridge) are worth pondering on. The crag sees few visitors, mainly because the grade spread is a bit on the tough side.
At an altitude of 600m and south-facing, the crag is best avoided in the hotter months. Routes are up to 22m in length. The crag is very sheltered and suffers a little from seepage, mainly in the major crack systems.
From Foix, take the D1 towards Lavelanet. After around 15km, take a left towards the hameau (hamlet) of Garrigue. The road winds steeply up through the village and shortly after leaving the buildings take a sharp turn to the left, a right fork here runs towards some large agricultural buildings. The gravel track then leads to parking for about 4 cars on a right-hand bend after around 250m.
Locate the narrow path on the outside of the bend and zigzag up through woods on a slightly overgrown track to reach the limestone ridge. Follow pink splodges and cairns leftwards, initially through the trees, and then along the exposed rocky ridge. A scrambly section (easiest just to the left of the crest) leads to a short scramble down to a flat rock ledge (do not descend too early - if in doubt follow the pink spots). 12m along the ledge, the path jigs right (pink arrow) to enter a channel. Descend this to find an impressive leaning fin of yellow-and-grey rock punctuated with cracks. Loop round left to reach the base of the wall.
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