Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.
Rockfax Description
A fine climb to the left of the ever-popular Blue Sky making the most of the steep rock to the left of its upper section.
1) 4c, 25m. Start as for Blue Sky but continue leftwards up the long groove to a ledge and superb cave belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb direct up a short groove then move left into a long diagonal groove which is easy at first but becomes harder near the top where some barn-door moves gain easier ground left of the overhang. © Rockfax
FA. J.Harwood, M.Rhodes 01/Mar/1980.
Pembroke VDiff-HVS , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Alan James - Rockfax | 28 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: HVS 4c grade is wrong for this. Pitch 2 takes a very logical line but one which is closer to 5b at the top. Climb direct up a short groove then move left into a long diagonal groove which is easy at first but becomes harder near the top where some barn-door moves gain easier ground left of the overhang. More like HVS 4c, 5b or even E1 4c, 5b. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: HVS 4c grade is wrong for this. Pitch 2 takes a very logical line but one which is closer to 5b at the top. Climb direct up a short groove then move left into a long diagonal groove which is easy at first but becomes harder near the top where some barn-door moves gain easier ground left of the overhang. More like HVS 4c, 5b or even E1 4c, 5b. |
||||
Tombennett85 | 18 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I’m not sure if anyone really knows which line to take, just pick one and go for it | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I’m not sure if anyone really knows which line to take, just pick one and go for it |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bosherston Head)