Restricted Access
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) This restriction has been lifted for 2024 as of 27th May
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
The line is up the left-hand groove of the big open corner above the ramp. Gain the groove from below and follow it to the roof. Pull steeply around this and finish more easily above. © Rockfax
FA. J.Lamb, D.Armstrong, P.Whillance 01/Jan/1977.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Alcock | 26 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great fun, but quite pumpy. A worthy alternative to the Arrow, but rarely crowded. A big cam is nice at the crux, but not essential. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great fun, but quite pumpy. A worthy alternative to the Arrow, but rarely crowded. A big cam is nice at the crux, but not essential. |
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| chris j | 21 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Steady till you get to the roof, then desperate!! You'll feel it's time for the pub when you finish... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Steady till you get to the roof, then desperate!! You'll feel it's time for the pub when you finish... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Sinecure
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carreg-y-Barcud Area)