The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
Rockfax Description
As reachy as the name suggests. Climb the sinuous crack in the left-hand edge of the slab. A side-runner for the start is normal, otherwise the route is E4. Continue up to the break and finish up the wall above. Originally started where Swan Song now is. © Rockfax
FA. Phil Wilson, Gary Gibson, Mark Walton 1979 FA. (Direct Start) Gary Gibson, Derek Beetlestone, S Frazer 1981.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
smudge | 3 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned 2022. Care required with loose rock after hard section. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned 2022. Care required with loose rock after hard section. |
||||
ksjs | 20 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: the reach can be avoided by getting feet up. good route if shortlived; top section sadly takes away | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: the reach can be avoided by getting feet up. good route if shortlived; top section sadly takes away |
||||
goi.ashmore | 10 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I don't think its reachy, but they are long rock ups | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I don't think its reachy, but they are long rock ups |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Black Rocks)