Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Start as for the Direct but make hard moves up and right to a ledge in the middle of the wall. Continue through a bulge to finish. Same grade but easier than the Direct. The direct start is a very reachy f6A. © Rockfax
FA. Eric Byne 1930s.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Monk | 14 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I really enjoyed this route. Nice delicate and committing moves. Ok they aren't high, but the landing isn't good. I soloed it because the gear looked worthless anyway. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I really enjoyed this route. Nice delicate and committing moves. Ok they aren't high, but the landing isn't good. I soloed it because the gear looked worthless anyway. |
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| ste | 29 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: fell off and all the gear ripped which wasnt a surprise so finally did protected by a skyhook weighted down with friends. went up and foot traversed the handholds. still a stupid route | ||
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Show beta
βeta: fell off and all the gear ripped which wasnt a surprise so finally did protected by a skyhook weighted down with friends. went up and foot traversed the handholds. still a stupid route |
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| Chris the Tall | 14 Nov, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: I was able to make a long, precarious reach across to the ledge, though a shorter (& lighter) person could probably make more use of the holds in between. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I was able to make a long, precarious reach across to the ledge, though a shorter (& lighter) person could probably make more use of the holds in between. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Midshipman / Plain Sailing
Grade: E2 6a ***
(Birchen Edge)