UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The delicate left arete and the face on the left of the final nose. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults'

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ola Czerwiakowska 22 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant comeback route. Definitely doing it again without the side runner. Do the layback on top. So satisfying!
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant comeback route. Definitely doing it again without the side runner. Do the layback on top. So satisfying!
Headjam 22 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Stop worrying about your English Simon - anyone who's done the route will know what you mean !! (Not quite as much fun in the rain though, as bit green/black and mouldy on the LH side of the arete when it's been wet, oh, and the final rounded top ! 80).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stop worrying about your English Simon - anyone who's done the route will know what you mean !! (Not quite as much fun in the rain though, as bit green/black and mouldy on the LH side of the arete when it's been wet, oh, and the final rounded top ! 80).
LakesWinter 26 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The block of rock forming the left side of the crack at the top of the arete is loose, you can move it by putting a hand jam in, so I wouldnt put any cams in it coz they'll probably rip.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block of rock forming the left side of the crack at the top of the arete is loose, you can move it by putting a hand jam in, so I wouldnt put any cams in it coz they'll probably rip.
The old James turnbull 29 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: funny how all four photos are not of this climb but of bawls crawl.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: funny how all four photos are not of this climb but of bawls crawl.

Logged Ascents

862 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 80 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 60
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cracker Jack

Grade: HVD ***
(Wildcat)

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