UKC Logbook - Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall

Contributed by George Muston Aug/20 - This public ticklist has been seen 262 times

The best routes in West Penwith for honing your trad skills. Routes are listed in order of difficulty, both in terms of the order they have been listed, and the grade by which they have been divided. I've included everything up to low/mid grade HVS. I can't give you any of the individual info on any of the routes on here, so if there's anything you want to know firstly check UKC comments, and/or secondly drop me a line. I will send you separately a list of hazards you need to be aware of for each crag. Mega classics like Commando Ridge and Right Angle have not been included as you will want CONSIDERABLE experience of ropework/abseiling, and the like before you do them in order to enjoy them properly. Esoteric but good crags have been left out, these will be worth exploring when you have the experience needed, but not before. You will want/need a copy of West Country Climbs and/or the Climbers Club North and South Coast Cornwall guidebooks. Enjoy!

Lou rigging the belay on Red Wall © Wil Chivers — Lou rigging the belay on Red Wall
wilchivs, Apr 2017
© Wil Chivers

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	George Muston	68%	11 Apr, 2022
2nd	JenkinsCW	20%	11 May
3rd	L.Bruten	13%	29 May, 2021
4th	James Coates	8%	5 Sep, 2020
5th	a.lloydharris	7%	6 May
6th	Joshua Brumpton	5%	27 Sep, 2020

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Jen Oliver on the famous last few moves of Demo Route

First time leading a route since losing my leg 4 years ago.

Getting some in between the showers. Luwi following Fraser up Shorty's Folly.

If only that top layback was longer....!

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
	DIFF
1	Corner and Staircase	D *	964	13m		Roche Rock
2	Junior's Route	D **	668	20m		Sennen
3	Senior's Route	D *	901	20m		Sennen
4	Staircase	D **	1707	18m		Sennen
5	A Little Gemma	D *	107	20m		Pen Olver
6	Main Face Climb	D **	859	23m	• 2	Sennen
7	Alison Rib	D ***	4021	59m	• 3	Bosigran
8	Sinner's Route	D **	569	24m	• 2	Sennen
9	Black Slab	D **	1353	43m	• 2	Bosigran
10	The Groove	D	202	12m		Trewavas
	VDIFF
11	Bending Chimney	VD *	518	17m		Trewavas
12	Ivy Chimney	VD	331	14m		Trewavas
13	Blind Pew	VD **	272	25m		Pen Olver
14	Great Slanting	VD **	223	15m		Pen Olver
15	Sancho	VD *	486	18m		Trewavas
16	In-Between	VD **	1669	33m		Bosigran
17	Kate	VD *	1029	33m		Bosigran
18	Big Top	VD *	1437	25m		Bosigran
19	Corner Climb	VD **	2082	20m		Sennen
20	Banana Flake	VD **	1732	22m	• 2	Sennen
21	Black Slab	VD *	831	24m	• 2	Sennen
22	Dowser's Route/Porthgwarra Face	VD ***	263	42m	• 3	Porthgwarra...
23	Peel Crack	HVD **	388	15m		Carn Barra
24	Rake's Progress	VD **	185	56m	• 4	Chair Ladder
25	Oread	HVD *	1343	33m		Bosigran
26	Intermediate Route	HVD *	1154	19m	• 2	Sennen
27	No Name	HVD **	693	20m		Sennen
28	Ledge Climb	HVD ***	1680	73m	• 3	Bosigran
29	South East Buttress	VD **	481	18m		Roche Rock
	SEVERE
30	Mouseproof	S 4a *	675	13m		Trewavas
31	Tregagle's Crack	S 4a *	784	8m		Roche Rock
32	Hubble Drect	S 4a	159	15m		Trewavas
33	Joy	S 4a *	878	18m		Trewavas
34	Ochre Slab Route II	S 4a **	1108	32m	• 2	Bosigran
35	Saltheart	S 4a *	169	15m		Pen Olver
36	Doorway	S 4a **	2046	60m	• 3	Bosigran
37	Pendulum Chimney	S 4b ***	1060	59m	• 5	Chair Ladder
38	Helluva Slab	S 4a **	291	43m	• 3	Porthgwarra...
39	Dong	S 4b **	773	39m	• 3	Bosigran
40	Red Wall	HS 4b **	315	54m	• 4	Chair Ladder
	HARD SEVERE
41	Cornel	HS 4b *	389	12m		Trewavas
42	Sidestep	HS 4b *	213	17m		Trewavas
43	Tregagle's Buttress	HS 4b **	472	8m		Roche Rock
44	Doorpost	HS 4b ***	3814	67m	• 3	Bosigran
45	Autumn Flakes	HS 4b **	1007	56m	• 3	Bosigran
46	Flannel Avenue	HS 4b ***	370	52m	• 3	Chair Ladder
47	Demo Route	HS 4b ***	3649	19m	• 2	Sennen
48	Terrier's Tooth	HS 4b ***	537	40m	• 3	Chair Ladder
49	Letterbox	HS 4b **	1019	22m	• 2	Sennen
50	Civvy Route	HS 4b **	1073	22m	• 2	Sennen
51	Pegasus	HS 4b ***	700	70m	• 3	Chair Ladder
	GOOD FIRST VS'S
52	Moping Owl	VS 4c *	351	19m		Roche Rock
53	Mascara	VS 4c **	688	20m		Trewavas
54	Joy Direct	VS 4c *	240	18m		Trewavas
55	Vertical Crack	VS 4c **	1172	20m		Sennen
56	Double Overhang	VS 4c **	1150	18m		Sennen
57	Avalanche	VS 5a **	533	14m		Trewavas
58	Porky	VS 4c **	819	17m		Roche Rock
59	The Arête	VS 4b **	913	27m		Sennen
60	Monday Face	VS 4b **	799	20m		Sennen
61	Seal Slab	VS 4c **	488	58m	• 3	Chair Ladder
62	Nameless	VS 4c ***	1047	58m	• 3	Bosigran
63	Zig Zag	VS 4c **	698	49m	• 3	Bosigran
64	Songs from a Gentle Man	VS 4b **	150	25m		Pen Olver
65	Venusberg	VS 4c **	746	51m	• 5	Bosigran
66	Ding	VS 4c **	864	42m	• 2	Bosigran
	TRICKIER VS'S
67	The Royal Forester	VS 4c **	389	27m		Zennor Cliff
68	Little Brown Jug	VS 5a ***	2580	66m	• 3	Bosigran
69	Aerial	VS 4c **	276	47m	• 3	Chair Ladder
70	Sam's Indirect Finish to Bending Chimney	VS 5a **	122	18m		Trewavas
71	Africa Route	VS 5a **	1071	18m		Sennen
72	Cress Cendo	VS 5a **	183	32m	• 2	St. Loy Cliff
73	Axis	VS 5a **	441	18m		Carn Barra
74	Anvil Chorus	VS 4c ***	1746	54m	• 5	Bosigran
75	South Face Direct	VS 4c ***	1278	59m	• 4	Chair Ladder
76	Carrivick	VS 5a *	162	14m		Trewavas
77	Super Crack	VS 4c *	90	43m	• 2	Carn Barra
78	Hayloft	VS 4c *	529	41m	• 4	Sennen
79	Dexter	VS 5a **	532	17m		Sennen
80	Diocese	VS 5a ***	911	56m	• 4	Chair Ladder
81	Slippery Slab	VS 5a **	223	27m		Sennen
	LOW END HVS
82	Weasle	VS 4c **	70	18m		Carn Barra
83	Ochre Slab Route I	HVS 5a **	845	32m	• 2	Bosigran
84	Shorty's Folly	HVS 4c ***	360	14m		Roche Rock
85	Rosebud in June	HVS 5a **	324	27m		Zennor Cliff
86	Mule	HVS 5a *	58	15m		Pen Olver
	MID GRADE HVS
87	Colomen	HVS 4c *	214	21m		Trewavas
88	Williams' Chimney	HVS 5b **	483	20m		Trewavas
89	Saxon	HVS 5a ***	877	50m		Kenidjack Cliffs
90	The Lord Falmouth	E1 5b **	781	15m		Roche Rock
		1 e, 167 stars	74,852	2,720m	163