Langdale is without doubt one of the best valleys in the Lake District for rock climbing. Classics abound and there is a lifetime of climbing here, with something for every trad climber, from beginner to mid-grade and up into the extremes. Those who dislike walking can find quality roadside hits, while climbers looking for higher rewards can shoulder their bags and sweat uphill for sublime mountain cragging. You can climb purely for pleasure or use the valley as a training ground to develop skills for distant objectives. Following in the footsteps of previous generations, a Langdale apprenticeship will gift you with a well-rounded skill-set for life.

Langdale is a stunning glacial valley with a deep history. From the stone walls to the slate quarries, ancient human connections to rock can be found across the valley. There are markings on the Langdale boulders and a Neolithic axe factory is located high in the mountains. The stone axes that came out of this valley – made some 6000 years ago – were prized objects, traded across Britain and Ireland. The rock in question is mostly volcanic rhyolite. It generally has good friction and interesting features, making for excellent climbing. 

1. Langdale Boulders

To warm up, visit the Langdale boulders where a range of short lines ascend and traverse around four beautiful erratics. There are cracks, pockets, smears and mantles to get your body moving with the rock; perfect problem-solving for an evening or a short day. 

The boulders have impressive prehistoric art carved into them – cup and ring markings, dating back more than 2000 years. You should not climb on the slabby face of the west boulder: this face is protected as a scheduled ancient monument. 

2. Scout Crags

In easy access from the roadside, these beginner friendly crags have three distinct sections: lower, middle and upper. The middle section is E grades only – so make sure you are climbing well before you get on that steep ground. The long wandering VDiffs on the Upper Crag are ideal for your first multi-pitch climbs. The angle is friendly and the outlook is pretty: try Glaciated Rib, Route 1 and Route 2. If you are comfortable moving on rock, this crag makes an inviting solo, with plenty of easy-angled rock to explore. At Lower Scout Crag, the short single-pitch Cubs – Cub's Groove, Cub's Arete, Cub's Wall, Cub's Crack – are worth a crack, but be aware that this place is popular with groups and the rock has become a little worn. 

3. Raven Crag (Walthwaite)

At the entrance to Great Langdale, Raven Crag Walthwaite sits above the charming village of Chapel Stile. Here you can find pleasant climbing up to 40 metres high – ideal for an evening or a short day – with some three star classics. Don't miss Enterprize and Route 2. Route 1 is another quality line, taking in more of the fractured rhyolite (so nice to touch!) but be aware, a lack of gear requires a steady head from the leader. For those climbing harder, the compelling lines of Tritus and Protus (HVS) lead into steeper ground with some exciting moves around the bulges and overhangs. When you've finished your pitch, relax and enjoy the belay: the crag has a lovely outlook over the Old Man of Coniston and you can watch the comings and goings in the working slate quarry in Chapel Stile. 

4. Raven Crag (Langdale)

The other and better-known Raven Crag sits at the far end of Great Langdale, conveniently just 15 minutes walk from Old Dungeon Ghyll (some climbers may struggle to move past this waypoint, but you will be rewarded for your efforts). At Raven Crag there are plenty of longer routes to develop your trad skills and feel your way into the spirit of Langdale climbing. 

Middlefell Buttress is a mega-classic Diff. Climb in tweed and flat caps with a hemp rope tied around your waist and a foul-smelling pipe for a truly authentic traditional tick. 

You can spend a full day at Raven Crag. Evening Wall, Holly Tree Traverse and The Original Route are perfect for developing your multi-pitch skills, weaving around the pinnacles, cracks and trees of the crag. Around the corner, Bilberry Buttress, Revelation, Elevation and Centipede are not to be missed. But be aware, the descent can be tricky. Make sure to read up where to go before you get there! 

For inspiration, marvel at the hard lines on the imposing and grand roof of Trilogy Wall. Here you will find The Grip Trip (E4) and Trilogy (E5) – and perhaps a swearing, sweating climber. In this section of the crag, there is also Centrefold (E7) put up by local legend, Bill Birkett in 1984. The direct finish was added by his nephew, Dave Birkett in 1991, which he named Dawes Rides a Shovel Head (E8) in tribute to one of his quarry workmates. 

5. White Ghyll

With a solid foundation of trad skills and confidence in leading, take your next steps at White Ghyll. From the ground of a steep gully, impressive trad lines rise up to 40-60 metres, taking in red-tinged rock on flying buttresses. The Slabs, Route 1 and 2 offer a gentler introduction to the climbing here. When you are ready for VS, try the three-star trilogy: Haste Not, Gordian Knot and Slip Knot. If you're moving well, go for Laugh Not and Waste Not, Want Not. Or, Perhaps Not. You will not be left wanting. 

6. Pavey Ark

Above the valley floor, an upper tier of rock climbing awaits. Pavey Ark provides another aspect on traditional Lakeland climbing. With a longer approach up a steep hill path like something from a Beatrix Potter story, Pavey Ark is good for aspiring alpinists and those who enjoy mountain scenery. In Rake End Chimney and Gwynne's Chimney you can hone your thrutching and back-and-foot (they don't teach this in climbing walls). On Cook's Tour you can go on a mountaineering journey (brace yourself for a little moss and vegetation) or tackle more technical climbing and route finding on the slabs, cracks and ribs of Coati, Stoat's Crack and Rake End Wall. Link ups are possible and after you have topped out on the mountain, why not plunge into the fresh waters of Stickle Tarn for a Langdale triathlon (hike, climb, swim). 

7. Gimmer Crag

Gimmer offers bigger rewards still for those willing to hike up the steep approach from Stickle Barn or the Old Dungeon Ghyll. With quick drying rock, a sunny aspect and stunning views down the valley and into the surrounding mountains, Gimmer is the jewel in the crown of Langdale climbing. 

Where to start on this steep barrel of rock? You can't go wrong with the three Classic Rock routes: Ash Tree Slabs, C Route and Bracket and Slab Climb. For Hard Rock ticks, climb The Crack holding your nerve on the airy traverse and steep corner, then go to Kipling Groove for a magnificent journey into the imposing rock architecture of Gimmer. These are just a few of the classics – there are many more three and two star routes on the buttresses running from VDiff through to E1/2 – all of which are long, excellent and varied. To make an alpine weekend, why not bivouac under this fearsome face, ready to get up and go again?

8. Bowfell

Now you have the fitness and appetite for mountain routes, consolidate your skills on a trip up Bowfell for a final Langdale Classic Rock tick. Bowfell Buttress offers chimneys, slabs and the famous Slippery Crack. The route is popular and on the right day you may queue for this line. The discerning might move across to Central Route instead. E1 leaders will want to clasp the Sword of Damocles on North Buttress – an Arthur Dolphin route from the 1950s. A contemporary of Jim Birkett, Arthur Dolphin was another pioneering working class climber who made his mark in Langdale. You'll find his name attached to many brilliant routes across the Lakes, including Gimmer (Kipling Groove) and on his home training ground of Almscliff (most famously, the HVS test-piece, Great Western). Tragically, this gifted climber died in a fall in the Alps in 1953, aged 28. 

9. Hodge Close Quarry

Having honed your trad skills and explored the length and breadth of Great Langdale, head into the neighbouring valley of Little Langdale for something different. Hodge Close Quarry is a disused slate quarry, demanding another style of climbing. Slate is much smoother than rhyolite and protection can be sparse. Hodge Close has a mixture of trad and sport routes; the climbing is superb but hard with an adventurous reputation. ('Adventure' here means run-out and suspect blocks so make sure to test your holds). Behind the Lines (HVS 5a) is one of the easier routes, following a stunning corner line. Sky (6b+) offers a superb and sustained bolted line: bring your best technical climbing and embrace the moves. 

10. Stickle Barn Crag

Whilst Stickle Barn Crag isn't the most extensive, it offers something that isn't abundant throughout the Lake District - easy access, quick drying rock. Its low lying, southerly aspect means it catches all the sun going and the fact that it's single pitch means that it lacks the committing feel of the larger crags nearby. The only caveat to this is that there aren't that many routes, although there's a good selection around VS-HVS - certainly enough to provide you with a day of entertainment. 

Logistics

Refreshments

Plenty! Langdale is well served by pubs. In case it rains (it is the Lake District…) the Langdale pub-crawl encompasses six pubs on a circular hike of 15km / 9.5 miles. (Advisory: this sort of training may not improve your climbing performance). The pubs are the Three Shires, the Britannia, Wainwrights, Stickle Barn, New Dungeon Ghyll and Old Dungeon Ghyll. All serve food, hot drinks and real ale.  

Langdale Co-operative in Chapel Stile is a well-stocked local shop and upstairs Brambles Café does tea, coffee, breakfasts, lunch and cake. 

Accommodation 

Gwen Moffatt used to sleep on hay in the barns, but the present-day climber would be better served with one of the excellent campsites. There is a National Trust campsite up by Old Dungeon Ghyll and Baysbrown Campsite, a large family-run site in Chapelstile. If you prefer a roof and a bed, there is Elterwater Independent Hostel and Langdale YHA in grand Victorian villa in a commanding position. 

Other things to see and do:

As well as the Langdale pub-crawl, there are numerous peaks and woodlands to explore. Crinkle Crags, Pike of Blisco and the Langdale Pikes are commanding summits which can be accessed via some classic Lakeland scrambling. Visit Cathedral Cave in beautiful oakwoods in Little Langdale for a striking quarried slate cave with tunnels to explore. You can swim in Blea Tarn or Stickle Tarn.

Over the hill in nearby Grasmere, buy world-famous gingerbread, peruse Sam Read's Bookshop and visit Wordsworth Grasmere, a museum dedicated to the life of the daffodil poet, William Wordsworth. With a recent refurbishment, the poet's house takes you back in time, showing what life was like here 200 years ago at the dawn of industrial revolution and the start of Lakeland tourism. 

Travel

Langdale is easy to access making it a popular place. The nearest train station is Windermere. From here you can catch a bus to Ambleside and another one into Langdale. Alternatively, you can cycle (10 miles / 16 km from Windermere). Hitch hiking works too – an insightful way to meet the local characters. 

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Lake District Climbs

Lake District Climbs provides comprehensive coverage of the very best traditional climbing in the mountains and valleys of English Lake District. The range and variety of climbing available is outstanding, from low-level single-pitch outcrop cragging to long multi-pitch mountain routes. There is something here for climbers of all abilities from experts to those just starting out. More info

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