UKC

Just wanted to note that there is currently a nest in the crack at the end of the traverse of on the second pitch of Sphynx (VS 5a). This was seen on Saturday the 18th. I don't know what the birds are (could hear, not see them), and I made myself scarce as quickly as I could, but the route should be avoided for now.

On a secondary note, the Rockfax app access notes are missing the really rather important access agreement altogether, should be updated to mention the ab approach. There is a sign on the grounds but it could be missed by anyone approaching from the mid-level.

Thanks Alkis. I've updated the RAD with a temporary notice regards the nest, as well as updating the list of abseil stations (recently increased from four to seven).

There is also a nest near the halfway belay ledge (on the same level, to the right) for Broken Toe Groove and Jackdaw Grooves. It would be advisable to avoid Jackdaw Grooves for now as the route passes very close to it. The nest isn't on the line of the abseil.

Joking aside well done for flagging this

Thanks. I've updated the notice to include this.

Even without one of the nests being around Jackdaw Grooves I would have guessed that these are jackdaw nests - almost certainly will be if they're "large bird's" nests.

If they are jackdaws then the major risks are:

• Eggs going cold because parent bird not sitting on nest
• Chicks (especially very young) getting cold as above

However this is most likely on wet cold days - which means less climbers so less possible disturbance. On warm sunny days it's less of a risk - they can cope with longer (but not long) absences of the parent birds.

I'm not saying ignore the "restrictions", far from it, just that Jackdaws are pretty hardy birds and will usually tolerate being fairly close to human activity - much closer than Ravens or Peregrines.

So if on a warm day you find yourself climbing past a jackdaw's nest that you weren't aware of, just press on and get past as quickly as possible, and if the route involves deep hand-jams, don't be surprised if you get a peck or two from youngsters thinking the wiggly things are food 😁 (Venery (HVS 4c) in  Dovedale)

Having just googled jackdaw chick calls, and having spotted an adult black bird with a lighter head flying around the trees, it’s very possible the nest I encountered is a jackdaw nest too.

Jackdaws was my immediate thought when I first saw your original post.