UKC

I am looking for destinations for multipitch climbing in the Italian or Swiss Alps, either alpinetrad routes or sport climbing, during the last week of May and early June. Considering the snow conditions this season, what places could be climbable in the mountains (excluding Arco or similar lower elevation valleys)?

Don´t know what sort of grades you´re looking at, but if you´re steady at F6a-6b on granite you could do worse than setting up base camp in the Salbitschijen hut, loads of brilliant classics there. I did Hammerbruch (6b) and found it comparable to the best Piola routes above the Envers hut; geat rock, very varied climbing, and with plenty of additional protection possibilities between the not too generously placed bolts.

youtube.com/watch?v=8yCJhO6-4qs&

No guarantees on the weather there at that time of the year, but that´ll apply everywhere that´s not in the valley.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/salbitschijen-3827/

Edit: just seen that the Salbit hut doesn´t open until mid-June; you can camp at the Campingplatz in Gwüestboden (Göscheneraip) at 1580m, which is open from mid-May.

PPS The hut website says that there´s still a lot of snow lying; that could change though.

Thanks. I don't lead at those grades, but my mate does. Have you been there in early season? Are the routes wet or the descent snowy? While there I would also be interested in the South Ridge, but I don't know what to expect regarding snow on the ridge and in the descent couloir (I'd rather not climb carrying crampons and ice axe).

We were there in August, so no idea what it´s like in Spring.

Crampons and an ice axe aren´t necessary, but you should avoid the main snowfield on the descent to the hut; there have been fatal accidents there when people have broken through the crust and got trapped a long way down between the mountain and the snow. So always skirt the snowfields, no matter how tempting the glissade may look.

PS I think we took crampons + axe for the approach, left them at the base of the climb and picked them up after abbing back down the line.

No worries about snow on the ridge, it´s very sharp, and if it´s icy you´d want to retreat anyway. The climbs are south facing and dry quickly; seepage can be a problem, but stick to the bolted routes and retreat will always be possible.

Usually at this time of the year, the south facing routes above Falzarego and around Passo Giau in the Dolomites are in condition. Lots of grade 4/5/6 routes with short access, good rock and reasonably easy descents; Snow is not a problem, as the snowy areas tend to be easy.