UKC

There are lots of words for different bolts in French.  bis (confusingly often written lower case), scellements etc. As far as I know Brits refer to them all as "bolts".  Or are there other words I dont know?  Anyone got a good list?

A few off the top of my head, others will be able l to add loads to the list.

English word list so used by climbers both sides of the pond.

Bolt.  Drive in. Through bolt. Rawlbolt. Peg bolt.

Thunder bolt  . Golo.  Staple. Glue in.

Trouble is that in addition  to the US Canadien British use of the English language most climbers anyway are unsure of the correct ,if there is one, terminology.

Pegbolts are pegs, not bolts....

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There are at least two types of pegbolt.

The modern Gogarth ones and that like used on the Compressor route , Cerro Torre and closer to home on R+S Special, Langdale.

Clipped one lot a few times, only seen pictures of the other.

Modern bolts placed for climbing tend to fall into 2 categories: Expansion bolts (Goujons in French) and Glue-ins (Broches).

Obviously there are many variations, in terms of materials, diameter, shape, etc., and now there are removable bolts to muddy the waters, but the two main categories convey the main difference in terms of how the bolt is secured.

Spit for the old bot type?

thats very helpful John.  Are all "broches (FR)" "glue-ins (ENG)"?  

"Broches (FR)" are also "ice screws (ENG)".  

And there was me thinking a Goujon was a rather delicious chicken snack.

Fairly sure Spit (manufactured by SPIT) is a type of Goujon.

But in French you say "broche à glace" to distinguish. Having said that, il y a une broche à glace dans Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans (E8 6c)

That may be true but in my experience "spit" is used pretty commonly and generically for (expansion) bolts

Yes, 'spits' as we call them are made by SPIT. However, they diiffer from expansion bolts in that they are a self drilling sleeve which is expanded by placing a conical wedge into the end and then the sleeve pounded into the hole thus expanding the sleeve. A short stubby bolt is then screwed into the outer end securing the hanger. They are rather old skool and it's pretty rare nowadays to find new ones being placed. They seem to be the 'go-to' word for Brits.

They are not to be confused with an expansion bolt which protrudes from the rock requiring a nut to secure the hanger. These are generally referred to as 'goujons' and 'plaquettes'.

A glue-in can indeed be referred to as a 'broche', but equally as a 'scellement' which may be more common.

An overall term for points of fixed protection without having to define them, is simply 'points'. 

you are right but the "à glace" is often left out and the meaning is obvious from the context.  Also used as a verb "brocher".

I saw Chicken Goujons on a pub menu recently, must have lead to some very sketchy protection placed if people got confused