UKC

Sad news, which I've only just found out. He was only 65.

See for example https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/25/remembering-john-middendorf

He used to post on this site, with updates of his 'Mechanical Advantage' historical series.

Edit: see https://www.ukclimbing.com/user/profile.php?id=282354

I simply cannot see why you get two dislikes. Is that saying that you should not have bothered posting about JM? Or that they do not like him?

I've now been educated about him, as I have read your links. Thank you. Sounds as if he was a climber solely focused on climbing and its machinations and roots. Why should we not appreciate him? Thank you.

Perhaps you should complete your profile.

This got a dislike, or rather a   as I'm very sad John has died at a comparatively early age.  A nice guy , and a good climber who designed and made some great gear.

I've updated the thread so that it has RIP within the title - hence voting has subsequently been removed.

Very sad news regarding John.

I’m not usually one for replying to RIP posts, but John’s name is important to me. When planning a trip to Yosemite 20 years ago, his book (with John Long) on ‘Big Wall’ technique was my bible for months.They unlocked complex skills even I could understand. It’s still on my shelf, a great reminder of exciting times. 

I enjoyed reading his blog over the years  and found it very informative and entertaining. RIPJohn.

Really sad news first met him half way up Freeblast many years ago. Very nice to us. We were having a hard time. 

Tony and Sarah 

Sad news!

There will be plenty of remembrances of John Middendorf elsewhere, but I wanted to share this one:

https://gripped.com/profiles/yosemite-climber-turns-to-saving-old-trees/

In case people aren't aware, he had been living in Tasmania for quite a few years recently, and had put his weight behind the important environmental campaigns going on down there.

Oh, and as a final PS, I see that his 'Mechanical Advantage' researches did indeed finally get published in book form - see https://www.bigwallgear.com/p/buy-the-books

His work there was admirable, and important. I always thought that he had taken up the mantle of Doug Scott's much earlier book 'Big Wall Climbing.'