UKC

I´m about to replace my old crampons to something slightly more technical and I´m looking at G14 and Petzl Sarken.
Just read the Sarken review on psychovertical and it sounded perfect for me. I don´t know if I´m out on thin ice here but all Andys reviews are rave. I don´t doubt his a serious, talented and very bold climber it just strike me as odd that everything he reviews is great. I wouldn´t mind a second opinion from here.

Anyway, I will mostly use them on longish W3-W4 and the occasional W5 as well as some snow plods, easy gullys. Being a cheapskate I can only afford one pair of crampons.

How does the Sarken compare to the G14?

.d

In reply to slob: Sarkens are a great crampon, but with my size 47 boots they're a nightmare to get on with the wire bail on the back, as the grove on my boots is too high (I presume)

In reply to slob:

I have both Sarkens and G14s. I find the Sarken front points to be much better for ice. I use the G14s where there's more rock involved....like scratching around early season in the Northern Corries.

(johni - I have no probs with the leverlock version of the Sarken on size 47.5 NEs)

In reply to Chato Fan Club:


intersting you say that. i changed to the supposedly more all round champ G14's from a long ownership of dmm terminators, and wondered was it just my imagination that they seemed far less confidence inspiring in water ice. a far bigger drop in the ability to delicately 'tic tac' up thin or fragile ice, for want of a better way to put it.

mind you, I DID have over a years gap between the last time i got to use the Terminators and my new G14, so i thought it must just be me imagining it?....
.....seeing as how most reviews seem to suggest they are the best out there for "...and up to hard ice climbing..." in terms of all-round ability, even compared to similar 'horizontal' frame crampons that also had vertical points.

would be interest in hearing similar/contrasting comments.....

In reply to slob:

I have a pair of the Sareken SL (side lock). They have been really good for pure water ice up to WI6, though I haven't used them for any mixed in Scotland.

The only thing I don't like is the side lock system and have found it very difficult to fasten quickly. It is not as easy as a standard heel leverlock. As a result, I would not buy the side lock system again.

Rich White

In reply to slob:
They're both excellent crampons, the G14's have replaceable frontpoints so if you are a cheapskate they might work out cheaper in the long run, also they can be set up as a monopoint if you fancy yourself as the next Will Gadd/mixed superhero. I'm not sure of the actual weights but I would imagine the Sarkens are lighter as they are moulded in one piece rather than having a bolt setup.

Also, as Andy Kirkpatrick points out in his reviews, when it comes to climbing gear, there really isn't any BAD product out there because most companies have been around for years, and if something doesn't work or is poor quality then it becomes apparent very quickly and doesn't do the manufacturer any favours, as they all have reputations(and customers lives) to protect.

In reply to Richard White:
Good to hear they perform well on steep ice as well.

Do you know if the back of the Spirlock is the same as the one on Sidelock? If so I guess I would go for the more conventional Leverlock system instead. I also heard a lot of complaints on the Sidelock system. The only ones I heard being positive about Sidelock are some serious guys, Andy K and a swedish guy climbing Shipton Spire.

.d

In reply to task-o:
I don´t think the stuff Andy K reviewed are crap. But I would prefer if he compared gear with other gear and solutions with other solutions so you better get an idea of the products position on the overall market. (Jesus I sound like a marketing man...)

The Sarkens are some 100-200 grams lighter than G14. As I don´t see myself doing a lot of mixed climbing in the near future I will probably go for Sarken due to their supposedly good performance on ice and lighter weight. Their frontpoints should also provide good support on snow.

thanks for your thoughts, all of you
.d

In reply to slob:
thats interesting to note that the sarken perform better on ice then the G14's, i would have thought the other way round!!

thinking of buying a pair of vertical points for more ice work, going to norway in december see!

got a pair of G12's at the moment performed prety well so far in scotland and the alps, but lack that bite when on pure ice.

anyone got an opinion?

In reply to slob: Ive had G14's since they first came out. Cant fault them. Can walk in them and climb in monopoint to WI5 - I have no plans to change then. They have never popped off either.Dont ball up badly.

I have not compared them with others, but would wholeheartedly recommend them.