UKC

I've not done much route projecting as I've mainly focused on onsight climbing to date but looking to change that.

I'm therefore looking for a few potential project candidates that are E4 - E5 trad routes or 7a - 7b sport routes. Ideally I don't want to be dragging a partner out for a hangdogging session so looking for stuff that's relatively easy to access and setup a TRS system, so I can work the route independently before going for it proper. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I recently had my first go on The Mau Mau E4 6a in the quarry and this was the ideal kind of setup I'm looking for (easily accessible bomber anchors at the top of the route). Quite content to work away at this for now but it would be good to have a couple of other suitable options on my radar. Living close to Llanberis so bonus points if they're quickly accessible for an evening session.

Hi Jay, ive been out doing lots of TRS in the area recently. As I'm sure youve found the quarries are good because its easy access and the bolts often ease various aspects of anchoring and rebelaying, although sharp edges and loose rock are a constant.

my dilemma has been over which routes should be saved to be done in good style or do I just want to go out and have the most fun I can. I've broadly arrived at the second option. On that basis the routes in California and Collosus wall are epic 60m *** E4-E5 mega classics which you can walk round the top of.

The routes on hidden wall (Rimsky Korsakov, What a difference a day makes etc) would probably suit your requirements.

Slate quarries are ideal. Plenty lines there you’d never want to try onsight so why not.

Lech Drws Y Coed is great but there’s not much of it. Take a long rigging rope to reach the big boulder.

And there are quite a few moelwyn routes I would be ok with sacrificing to the toprope.

Maybe not the best for an evening session from Llanberis, but Craig y Forwyn is good for this - you approach from the top anyway and there are several routes in the grade range you want that are easy to throw a rope down.

Waves of Inspiration, and Central Sadness in California in the slate are both excellent routes, easily shuntable with a 60m rope, and approach is a walk to the top for the anchor bolts. Both E5 but WoI is much softer than CS

Heading the Shot could be a cool project as well, shuntable as above. I've abbed down Weasels ripped my flesh in the Pass, which looks great but slightly steeper approach and involved anchor

Leaning Crack E4 at Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf is a good techy route, short approach, simple sling + nut anchor set up  

Best of luck, enjoy!