UKC

Off-width Yorkshire boulders

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 StupidHorse 06 Jul 2024

After doing a few of the famous off-width routes at Brimham recently and really enjoying them I have realised there's a quite a bit of technique that I need to practice. After finding Desperation Crack pretty hard but doable I was utterly shut down by Bog Crack.

Any suggestions for off-width boulders to go have a look at?

 petegunn 06 Jul 2024
In reply to StupidHorse:

You should get on Born Again (f7A+) at Brimham it's a real fight if you only jam your way up it. Think it gets 7b in most guides 👍

As well as the established "Dirty Dozen" list ive added a "Dirty Dozen More" tick list for Brimham with the grades between VD - E3 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/a_dirty_dozen_more-629

If your ever up in Northumberland I recommend Cowboy Up! (f7A+) Its actually one I still need to go back to after falling out from the top.

Post edited at 20:47
 Rick Graham 06 Jul 2024
In reply to petegunn:

Are most of those a bit hard?( apart from the v diff to e3 list).

IMminimalE boulder grades for lower  E grade routes are embarrassing low, like 5 something or whatever.

(I only have 3 grades for bouldering, can do ,cant do ,dare not go higher.)

Edit, might have been better if I had just asked what boulder grade are Bog and Desperation .

Post edited at 22:21
 pebbles 06 Jul 2024
In reply to petegunn:

Done 5!!!

Bog crack is heinous, and also most of the time inaccesible due to the eponymous bog just in front of it. Which usually comes as an enormous relief to anyone who has mentioned an urge to do it.

 pebbles 06 Jul 2024
In reply to Rick Graham:

Both way too high to sensibly boulder

 petegunn 06 Jul 2024
In reply to Rick Graham:

In the Dirty Dozen list theres Tube Break at E3 and Gigglin Crack at E6 which are the 2 hardest, the majority are under E1 however.

Twinking Crack (E1 5b)  and Quad Crack (E3 5c) in the Yorkshire Dale's are worth hunting out, being limestone they are not too abrasive. 

Theres Hull and High Water (6c) as well for something a bit different as its bolted!

 Graeme Hammond 06 Jul 2024
In reply to petegunn:

> You should get on Born Again (f7A+) at Brimham it's a real fight if you only jam your way up it. Think it gets 7b in most guides 👍

Not sure how it managed to ever be graded 7a+ or 7b as the sit doesn't really add any difficulty to the VS stand start

OP StupidHorse 08 Jul 2024
In reply to petegunn:

Oh that Born Again looks suitably heinous! Great stuff, cheers.


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