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Pex Hill Question

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 GCW 03 Oct 2006
How many ascents has Monoblock had?
I noticed it has 9 grade votes on the database (mostly suggesting font 8a). Since nobody would vote for a problem they haven't done this means it's had at least 9 ascents. Any advance on 9?
Hotbad Peteel 03 Oct 2006
In reply to GCW:

A total of 4 was mentioned and as its a long way from sheffield that might be true and their might be no rumours of unpublished ascents byu amazing climbers who've never been seen with boots on <ahem>
p
 willhunt 03 Oct 2006
In reply to GCW: Definately not 9. The votes might count as 1 for each aspect of the vote (such as grade AND the amount of stars it gets). The people who have done it probably havent voted on it though (although Andy Popp does post on UKB).

Ascents that i know of are:
Phil Davidson
Joe Healey
Andy Popp
(MAYBE Johnny Dawes. I heard that the reason why so many routes of a ridiculous height are given bouldering grades instead of trad grades is because JD did a lot of climbing there and had a hand in route gradings. Could be a lie though as it was told to me by a brandy sipping friend at an 18th bday do)
 willhunt 03 Oct 2006
In reply to GCW: Now that youve said that I want to know two things:

1. Whos done Monoblock

2. Has JD ever touched sacred ground and if so with how much influence and what routes are his.

Would also reccomend to the mods that there be a Pex Hill forum!
OP GCW 03 Oct 2006
In reply to willhunt:

Has Mr Farnell not done it?
I suspected that there would be less than 9. A bit surprised none of the young guys around have had a look. Ryan Pasquill?
One vote covers both grade and star. Unless you vote for the grade, and again for the star. Don't see why you'd do that though.
I wouldn't be surprised if the bouncing Dawes had nipped up it. Can anybody ask him? And would he tell?
You could have a Pex forum, but only if there can be a Brownstones one as well.
Fishtrumpet 03 Oct 2006
In reply to GCW:
Don't think Andy's done it - may be wrong though. Maybe Pete Chadwick?
 willhunt 03 Oct 2006
In reply to Fishtrumpet: That was the one I was forgetting. Im sure hes done it. Dont think Andy's done it.
Would also like to know why it hasnt been upgraded seeing as by the nature of the route and the style of it (due to the place its at) V10 is absurd.
Ste Brom 03 Oct 2006
In reply to Fishtrumpet: blx, done in penny pumps. Didnt you solo that twice last summer Kev?
OP GCW 03 Oct 2006
In reply to Fishtrumpet:
So we've got.....

Phil Davidson
Joe Healey
Andy Popp
Pete Chadwick
MAYBE Johnny Dawes

Still not quite 9 ascents. "hardest route in the world" and it's V10?
OP GCW 03 Oct 2006
In reply to Ste Brom:
> (In reply to Fishtrumpet) blx, done in penny pumps. Didnt you solo that twice last summer Kev?

Solo? That's impressive since it takes so much gear on the lead.
 Pekkie 03 Oct 2006
In reply to GCW:
> How many ascents has Monoblock had?
> I noticed it has 9 grade votes on the database (mostly suggesting font 8a). Since nobody would vote for a problem they haven't done this means it's had at least 9 ascents. Any advance on 9?

Erm, i think people do sometimes vote for things they haven't done (the cads!). Local opinion is that Joe Healey did the first ascent closely followed by Phil Davidson, back in the age before history began, recently followed by Andy Popp. Though some pretty nifty climbers have been down Pex and there might be others.
 Andy Farnell 04 Oct 2006
In reply to Pekkie: AFAIK it's had 3 maybe 4 ascents. The way Joe originally did it hasn't been repeated. Phil and Andy Popp started a slightly different way. Pete may well have done it, rumours are he has.

Andy F
OP GCW 04 Oct 2006
In reply to andy farnell:

Thanks Mr. F.
The original method is supposedly harder if I remember correctly?
 Andy Farnell 04 Oct 2006
In reply to GCW:
> (In reply to andy farnell)
>
> Thanks Mr. F.
> The original method is supposedly harder if I remember correctly?

You remember correctly. Joe started direct, the others slightly to the left AKAIK.

Andy F
Andy Popp 04 Oct 2006
In reply to GCW:

Lots of confusion here, which I'll try and clear up. I know of three ascents. Joe, Phil and myself. Pete has top roped it. I don't know of others though, of course, there may be a few. I very much doubt there are many though and certainly not nine. It is very unlikely that any of the ascentionists listed above will have voted on it - I know I haven't. The V10/Fnt 7c+ it is now given comes from Pete and Steve Dunning, who has been on it. It is extremely likely to be undergraded.

Johnny to the very best of my knowledge has not done it (and would struggle with the reaches anyway). Grading practices at Pex are nothing to do with Johnny who has done nothing significant there. Grades have traditionally been harsh and tech grades only because the place, in its heyday, was seen as a training venue. E grades were not need in the normal sandstone ethic. Remember the stars then (Phil and Joe) were extremely proficient and bold trad climbers. To my mind, the two different ways Monoblock has been done are not hugely different. In fact, Phil and I took a straighter line, Joe starting right and then moving a little left. No-one knows which is hardest/easiest as no-one has done both. I took the line I did because that's where I thought it went, not having asked anyone in the know. Hope that helps
 Beaver 04 Oct 2006
In reply to andy farnell: I think DJViper got the onsight...
 Andy Farnell 04 Oct 2006
In reply to Andy Popp: I stand corrected, thanks for clearing that up Andy.

Andy F
OP GCW 04 Oct 2006
In reply to Andy Popp:

Thanks Andy. Good of you to take the time to reply.
Is Steve Dunning still planning to do it?
 Pekkie 05 Oct 2006
In reply to Andy Popp:
> (In reply to GCW)
>
> Lots of confusion here, which I'll try and clear up. I know of three ascents. Joe, Phil and myself. Pete has top roped it. I don't know of others though, of course, there may be a few. I very much doubt there are many though and certainly not nine. It is very unlikely that any of the ascentionists listed above will have voted on it - I know I haven't.

So, mysterious nine. no comments?

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