In reply to jmoony11:
I did this last week. It had been on my wish list for a very long time and did not disappoint.
We wore crampons on the approach but other teams didn’t. I imagine there is much less snow now as it’s been hot this week.
Im sure the Sasc fura hut will know. It’s a very friendly, reasonably priced hut, with good found and dinner.
I took a single 60 and have 40m out most of the time. I simu climbed sections, and if you pitch the whole thing you’ll be there a very long time!
We descended down to the Val Di Mello. I would recommend getting a cab back to Bodo. This will
cost about 300 euro, but you should be able to find another team to split the cost.
Descending the North Ridge takes a very long time. I didn’t when I did the Cassin and would not recommend. Descend the south side takes
2-3 hours and is fairly straightforward, but watch out for the abseil lengths on the topo. It’s also not that well equiped for a popular route. I teamed up with a swiss guide which made life easier. Two 50 half ropes would be perfect for the descent.
Or and wear rock boots it’s quite smeary. One could climb it in boots but comfy rock boots are nicer.