UKC

Hi, I fractured my spine badly (hemilamectomy and four level fusion T11-L3) in March following a bouldering fall. I am getting to the point where I am going to start climbing again.
 

Plan is first on auto belays inside to build strength back as well as some confidence on rope as I have only been bouldering for over 20 years.

After that I am looking to start outdoor top roping (partnered and then maybe solo depending on how it goes) and was hoping for some recommendations for optimal venues in the uk. I would want it where the top is accessible to set up the anchor and there are fixed anchor points (ideally) or at least trees to which safe anchors can be set up. 

Any advice greatly appreciated. 
ollie

Alternatively, could you look for climbing partners who are happy to lead climbs? Then you can just second routes and aren't constrained by venues and having to continually faff with setting up top (bottom) ropes?

Fair point, I hadn’t thought of that to be honest. However still be good to have some top rope venues for when I don’t have a partner to make that work. 

In terms of purely top roping areas, all of Southern Sandstone is top rope only due to the fragility of the rock not supporting lead climbing. Whether you find the climbing there appealing is another question, I personally am not a big fan but some like it well enough.

I would recommend however that you look into a basic trad introduction, specifically how to make trad anchors. This would open up most single pitch trad crags, eg all of the eastern edges in the Peaks (Stanage, Burbage, Frogatt etc.) These all have accessible anchor points at the top so you could top rope without leading if so desired.

Having said that, I definitely second (no pun intended) the notion of finding someone to climb with so that you can second the route they've just lead. You'll get the most mileage and most freedom of routes this way, all whilst avoiding any leading falls. Many people are looking for someone who would belay and second whilst they lead, especially if you can climb hard routes as your logbook suggests, so you wouldn't be short of partners I suspect.

Thank you. I think at present it would be a bit too much using trad anchors as I have very limited rope experience full stop so want it as simple and safe as possible really. 

That is something I will consider down the line though as such good routes to try with that. Thanks again 

Just a word of caution: You mentioned the possibility of top-rope soloing in your OP and now you describe yourself as having very limited rope experience full stop. This sets alarm bells ringing for me, as the skills and judgement needed for safe top-rope soloing I think are way higher than for most climbing with a partner. I've been climbing at a good standard for many decades and have no qualms about innovating and adapting ropework to suit novel situations, but I still get VERY nervous when top-rope soloing. It's fine once you have your systems down to a practised art, but it's getting to that point that I'd be most worried about.

There are so many but ones that come to mind are..... Nesscliffe, lots of trees at top, but make sure to have long static so anchor point for dynamic rope (screw gates) can be extended over edge, and lots of rope protectors to protect the static. routes here have soft sandstone so be careful with the rock (like southern sandstone) Also quarries with stakes are good, like Wilton quarries near Bolton. Shorn cliff in wye valley but can't remember how easy it is to get round to the top, and lots of grit crags (peak district) will have routes with boulders and trees at the top for anchors...

Mainly depends on where you are based, as i guess you'll want something near and then can get more suited recommendations. 

Also, safely setting up the 'master point' properly , which should be over the main edge at the top so the climbing rope can run freely, can be quite sketchy at lots of crags, so some level of rope work is needed so u can build it safely (on a gri gri maybe), and some knowledge of knots so u can equalise it all properly 

hope that helps, George

Yes thanks. I totally agree and will be progressing with this plan slowly. I am doing a rope course at a wall and the top role solo bliss climbing course online. 

First aim is just to do some auto belays at walls as I understand this is very safe and will build confidence. 
Thank you

olllie

Yes some great recommendations and advice. Thank you

Hi Ollie
 

Daddyhole Upper Cliff

is a great crag for a bit of top roping as it is max 22m high, has decent fence posts or trees all along the top, free parking, great views and an easy and safe path to the base.

It will require some static to get the moving rope over the edge. Possible to climb year round in the Torbay climate with little seepage even this winter, and sheltered from westerly winds. Other options in South Devon but none with such easy top rope set up.

Cheers Chris