UKC

Looking to reassure/kid myself. Any suggestions? Prefer relatively unprotected to strenuous thuggery.

In reply to Steve Parker: Not that I've done it but High Noon at Caley sounds scary but potentially not too bad. Traditionally graded E4 but E5 really as I understand it. Other one that appeals is Left wall at Brimham - F7a (strenuous but not thuggy?) climbing but decent protection according to John Reads site. Got to be 2 of the best lines on Yorkshire grit.

In reply to Steve Ramsden:

Left Wall - Brimham
Baby Spice - Ilkley
Early Riser - Earl

In reply to Steve Ramsden:
Did left wall recently, found it not too bad, but a bit scary, as it was long way from the last gear I put in, to the top. The only other I've done was True Grit at Brimham, but it was downgraded in recent guide to E4 - not much use as an easy E5 then!

In reply to Steve Parker:

Steve, why not pop down to the Peak - there's loads more amenable stuff down there, e.g. Pebble Mill on Burbage, precarious scraping on the lower slab (tech crux, not high up), steady stuff, then a height-dependent slap at the top.

Another part of the equation; do you want to on-sight or headpoint?

Mick

In reply to Steve Ramsden: just checked John Read's site again and Left Wall is actually descrubed as only F6c climbing not F7a. Got to be a strong contender?

Cheers guys. Did Left Wall on TR years ago, unfortunately. Whereabouts is Baby Spice? Don't know it.

In reply to Tony Little: apparently there's an inverted 0.5 cam placement in one of the pockets higher up. Did you use that?

In reply to Mick Ward:
Yeah, I might have to broaden my horizons

Obviously OS is best, but a headpoint would be okay.

In reply to Steve Ramsden:
No, just charged to the top, a friend told me about that later too. I think it was the way I interpreted the description in the guide, made me think I just had to run it out. Would have been a big fall, but safe.

In reply to Steve Parker: Early Riser isn't strenuous or thuggy. Delicate, technical, green and dirty. I had a look a few weeks ago before it rained but i think I'd have to clean it first!

In reply to Nick Beckett:

Yeah, I've been looking at Early Riser for a while. I live nearby. Could be a goer. Could be a nasty fall too, if you bounce off that little ledge! Skilful spotting with an anchored spotter, I reckon.

In reply to Steve Parker: Propellar Wall in the Ilkley Quarry is E5 5c. No gear but not too bad for the grade. It's just a boulder problem in the sky. Beta is available if you need it

In reply to Beaver:

That's another possible goer. Might have to get a mat, though! But 5c sounds good!

No beta, cheers.

In reply to Steve Parker:

Its the left arete of the famous traverse there. (Rons traverse?)

Only a highball V6

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Ah, cheers.

In reply to Steve Parker:

Try Dragonslayer at Eavestone. Bold technical start but the mulch at the bottom is better than most bouldering mats. Easier and well protected in its upper half. A long neglected gem which may need a quick brush but stays pretty clean most of the time.

Dave

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

Hi Dave,


Now that's what I call a better class of beta!

All best wishes,

Mick

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

Cheers, Dave. Will I sink all the way over my head in the mulch if I fall off, or just up to my waist?



Actually, I did have a look at this route in the rain about 6 months ago - yes, needs a clean, but I might go and have a better look. Thanks for that.

In reply to Steve Parker:

Left Wall is safe but steepish (you said bold and slabby?)
Baby Spice is a boulder problem
Propeller Wall is E3
High Noon is E4 (and quite tough I thought!)
Early Riser is broken legs (or worse) if you fall off the top move.

Unprotected slabs, got to be Psycho! You can jump off the crux (with maybe a sprained ankle) and it just gets easier. That'd get my vote.

However to just answer the question "Easiest grit E5 in Yorkshire?"
I think I found 'The Marine Who Slept In' the easiest, but it's all subjective.

Good luck.

In reply to Steve Parker:

I think I sank up to my knees from about 6 metres up the route on my first attempt on the day I did the first ascent about 15 years ago. Nige Baker had a walk around there a couple of weeks ago whilst the weather was still good and said he thought it looked fairly clean.

In reply to Crippen: I failed miserably to second The Marine who slept In a few years ago so, as you say, its all very subjective. I still think Propeller Wall is quite serious. Its a very easy head-point but if you want the true on sight tick I think it needs more than E3?

Dave

In reply to Dave Musgrove: Ok Dave, I'll concede E4 for Propeller Wall! =] However it's not the same grade as say, Adrenaline Rush (and it's an easier onsight than The Kipper at Earl - which I failed to onsight). You can look at the holds from the left and yes, it really is as easy as it looks!

Genesis is harder than The Marine for sure! You must have been going well when you did that.

In reply to crippin: I had fingers when I did Genesis. I'd lost them by the time I tried the Marine. Its not always an issue but may have been on that route.

Plus of course, Genesis was a first ascent of a good looking line and there was a bit of competition about at the time. It always adds to the incentive.

Dave

I'll admit to top-roping Early Riser a few times and it is very easy with a rope above your head.
Have I been back to solo it - No!

The Ent

In reply to Steve Parker:
I found early riser a bit tricky and a touch harder than Slip and slide at Crookrise.
If you fancy a walk first then Dino mania at simons seat is a soft touch

In reply to raspers:
Raspers mate, there is no way the S n' S is harder then ER,
If my life depended on soloing either one, ER every time.
ask Nez?

The Ent

In reply to Enty:
But I know someone who fell of the ledge of S&S and walked home
I soloed SS just after Nez, the thing is it is easyer than early riser, but a bit more on the side of unsafe ( worth one more E point)

In reply to Enty:

I think ya ment ss was easyer and thats how I read it

In reply to raspers:
Sorry, my mistake.
I fell off the ledge below S n' S and walked home, morning after my stag do!

The Ent

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Presume you onsighted Early Riser then ?

In reply to Steve Parker:

It could be worth studying http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4755/climbing/gritlist/grit_e5.html for ideas...

In reply to Guy Maddox:

Cheers. I wasn't being entirely serious with the thread, I might be prepared to do the 2nd easiest if necessary

In reply to raspers: i would have to agree

slip and slide is technically easier than early riser

as you say though, maybe the fall is worse