UKC

Looking for a reliable, non Norway destination and the 2016 article on UKC came up about Iceland. If the name of the place is anything to go by and the free PDF topos on the Alpine club website then it looks like a great pick. So,

Has anyone been?

How would it compare to places like Norway?

Are conditions reliable?

Are the routes accessible or are we talking 7 hours cross country skiing?

Other logistics help is welcome.

Many thanks.

I have, mainly in Kaldakinn ice farm, but went to a few different places. It was a fantastic place to climb, we stayed in the Icebjorg farm which was great, walking distance to the ice if you don't have a 4x4 or a 5min drive with one. The farmer used to regularly update ice conditions on his FB page. You can always message him before your departure to see how the ice is doing. We had amazing ice, but being sea level it's not as reliable as Norway. But there are other areas inland, but I'm not sure where to get the info from. 

https://www.facebook.com/icebjorg/

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106447412/ice-bjorg-kaldakinn

http://www.bjorgum.is/icebjorg/about-isbjorg-in-kaldakinn/

I live here. When conditions are good, the waterfall ice climbing is world class, but the maritime climate means that there can be big thaws at any point during the winter. In the 8 years I’ve been here, there was always a period with good conditions, but equally periods of mild, wet weather. Less reliable than Norway, for sure. There is a lot of good climbing accessible from Reykjavik, but it pays to be flexible and follow conditions where possible.

Jan/Feb is most reliable, but March can also be good. Second half of February the days start to get a bit longer. 
 

For inspiration, within striking distance of Reykjavík you have 5* routes such as Glymur, Ýringur, Óríon, Þráin, Paradísarheimt, plus lots of cragging in Hvalfjörður. Picture attached shows there are still big unclimbed routes up for grabs, understandably less in proximity of Reykjavik. 
 

Rory

Thanks both of you for the replies.

To Rory, the conditions are a big factor. I would guess that the more inland you go, the better conditions might be perhaps but I wonder how easy it is to tap into local info.

Ramons link to the farmers Facebook page is gold but I'm also guessing that wider groups don't exist for Iceland like they do for Scotland where daily updates flood in from guides in many areas.

We had a couple of days in Norway where the weather was warm but local knowledge in a climbing shop revealed an area we'd never have found that gave us a first class day.

Its a hard one because a trip like this eats up annual leave and costs a lot. Thanks for the help so far.

Sorry this has to be done

Ive only climbed in Iceland once, got to the top of the frozen peas (IV route) before security chucked me out

Access to the interior proper is very difficult in winter. There are a few spots people tend to go early season (e.g Villingadalur and Brattabrekka), and Kaldakinn (linked above) might hold ice when conditions are bad in the south..

It is usually easy enough to get conditions info on facebook- feel free to send me an email if you decide to come and I can point you in the right direction.

Oh, and there is a route database on www.isalp.is

From personal experience (though not of ice climbing) Iceland is an expensive country even in comparison with Norway.

I was struggling to access those links on their website but just worked out that Google translate kills the links.

If we do get this going I'll make contact with you. Grateful as always for everybody's help.

We have ways of getting the cost down as we are a small group. Amazing what you can cook with dried food and a bag of onions.

I think this ice farm is the place literally on the beach if I've matched up what I think I know with your info.

Dani Arnold put out an iceland iceclimbing vid of what I think is the ice farm. The place looks incredible if its in.

I've not ice climbed in Iceland but I've puntered in Puntland 

Yes that’s the one, ice climbing off a volcanic beach was pretty wild, crampons full of black sand… If conditions are in I fully recommend it. You could easily spend 2 weeks there. The farmers apartment is brilliant, sleep loads, so the more the cheaper. Winter up there is pretty bleak for them, Bjorn killed a mutton and invited us for dinner at his house, it was brilliant. In Alastair Lee’s Onsight film, the ice climbing section is there.

That info is extremely useful, thanks. Looking at other activity options and will most likely book it for our group in early to mid Feb if its available.