UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_903-7726...

Posters:

AJM

Randy - it’s good to hear that you’re healthy enough to climb, even if other things are currently getting in the way of you doing so!

Somerset Swede Basher - congrats on Hannibal! And it’s not like it’s even the only thing you managed last week! Going strong at the moment

AlanLittle - looking forwards to your write up of Norway - I hope it goes well!

mattrm - congrats on the ultra, nice one! How are you feeling about future runs now the DOMS has (hopefully) receded

Ian Parnell - “if you use technique climbing is easier” - wise words if I ever heard them for a week down in Swindon you certainly seem to have made the best of it, nice one

Tigh - the biggest tick of the week, I don’t think anyones got higher than that! Nice one, sounds really good

Tom Green - I think that self reflection is really important, so it’s good you’ve been thinking it through. Seems to have triggered a busy and varied week off the back of it as well. 

Ross Barker - Is the bouldering down in the bottom of the cove at Ansteys, I assume it’s not by the crag bases is it?

Derek Furze - if a route is called Desperate Straits, I feel like finding it pumpy is about what you should expect, a route where the name is on the tin!

Steve Claw - first trip to Pembroke!? That’s a kid in a candy shop experience for sure. I remember driving there for the first time and it raining the entire way until about Swansea, then we had a weekend of glorious weather, before driving back into the rain again around Cardiff on the way back.

biscuit - how was Ansteys? Sounds like good progress on Wargames.

Tyler - I had a glorious day at sheep pen a few years ago, love to go back. Did you get back on the route this week?

Ally Smith - shopping trip the crux of the week, despite the two good boulder sessions?

Small Step - welcome back. Sounds like you’ve had a bit of a rough period, but as others have said this place seems to be one where people are supportive through the rough as well as cheering on the smooth

mrchewy - great to hear you reckon you’re past the long covid, that’s great news

the sheep - I’d love to have 3-4 swims and 3 runs count as my quiet week! Hope the hamstring behaved this week?

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. This week looks, at a glance, like I've got stronger but I think it's actually just a case of cashing in on all those working sessions where I didn't get anything done.

Mon. Anston Stones. Managed Chucklevision (f7C). Immediately brought back to earth when I could do no more moves than usual on either Swampy or Soul Crusher.

Tues, Wed, Thurs. School trips with an 8km walk each day. Managed to get out to Tom's Cave later on and did Lecter Armada (f7C) and then Choss Armada (f7C). Possibly used a hold that was out on the second one but it's a bit ambiguous and still 7C (just an easier one) so happy to take the tick.

Fri. 6km run

Sat and Sun. Away for the weekend at a wedding. I had considered a finger board session this eve but I appear to still comprise mostly of gin so I think I'll save it for tomorrow and watch the football instead.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM for the stats.  You're right, the name was a bit of a giveaway as was the angle!

A really entertaining week as I had arranged to show an American around a few things at Gogarth.  Turned out he had never been on a sea cliff!

Mon - collect Ben from Stockport and head West.  Picked Castell Helen as a gentle way into things and had a pretty decent day learning double ropes and stuff.  Did Pel (VS 4c), Blanco (HVS 5a)North West Passage (E1 5b) and Atlantis (E1 5c), so a nice day.  Five hours driving.  Ben was really nice and appreciative, though clearly had lots in hand.

Tues - work, but it pissed down anyway.

Wed - back to Anglesey to collect Ben.  Raining in Holyhead, so picked Dinbren as the only dry option.  By the time we got there, I had already driven five hours, so was stiff and sore.  Managed the somewhat tough warm up of Resist and Exist (6b), but was feeling pretty sore, so took the opportunity to play on ropes for the adjacent President's Brain thing.  Also hard at the grade.

What followed was really interesting.  I didn't get to the top of anything else, but I didn't quite a lot of intense climbing and hard moves on Traction Trauma (6c+) ( lots of comments giving this 7a), Walking with Barrence (7b) and the route in between at 7a+.  I have to say they all felt desperate, really technical and hard to on- sight, but apparently this is normal for Dinbren.  Although I was nursing an injury so being careful, I really enjoyed this experience.  Ben did okay, though only got Traction Trauma after working the damp section.  I will go back.  Didn't go on Technicolour Yawn as it was wet.  Got back after six and a half hours driving having done one route properly, but having learnt something!

Thurs onwards - very little as at a funeral Friday and busy with work.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy.

Wargames (should) go when dry. But it's refusing to be dry. So it'll have to wait.

Anstey's was great. Packs a lot in for a little crag. Weird to park in a housing estate and then go past a giant Range store, but once you're there it's beautiful.

The first day I had a few goes on Empire of the Sun (7b). Weird grading. Used to be 7b+. Downgraded to 7b, with many people complaining about the polish making it harder over time. 

After spending a fair amount of time on the Red Traverse (7b+) they have no idea about polish! 

Anyway, I finished the first day having fallen off just before the last bolt. I was a bit annoyed to be honest. I had a plan to tick the 7b and then have a look at Empire Direct (7b+) the next day. That's my ego for you! So the next day I warmed up, felt very tired from the previous day, got a bit of beta from a local (basically stop doing multiple small moves and do 1 big move) and it went well enough. It was tough, but never felt like I wasn't going to get it once I got through the crux move with the big move beta (less energy but lower percentage). I felt tired after though.

I'd suggest hard 7b using SSB's idea of grades being most accurately represented by how long a route takes you, which makes sense to me. 

Great route. Would love to go back, but the mega drive back home has somewhat put us off!

This week will be getting done what I can as I'm away with my son in London Fri-Sun. I'm not back until very late Sunday so it may affect next week too. So I'm keen to get out on Tuesday and I'll take my portable fingerboard with me when I go away. 

I squeezed in a boulder session today. Pathetic. Gave up after an hour. Ended up on the DTB falling off 6B's. 

So I need to get some bouldering oomph back. 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. Out on the rock this week there were a couple of times when I was pleased to feel that Swindon Beast training took the edge off when it got steep.

Mon – 60secs density finger pick ups – 12mins. Achilles rehab.

Tues – Anston Stones – quick 60 mins. Managed Gimli (f6B+) a heel hooky problem which I had found a bit too powerful on other visits. This is the sort of climbing I would previously have overlooked but today I got a real buzz from successfully piecing it together.

Wed – 3 x 20 twisting crunches, 1 leg bridge, supine windscreen wipers. 60 secs density finger pick ups – 12mins.

Thursday – Nothing

Fri – Roche Abbey. Back at Gypsy Buttress. Re-acquainted myself with Flautist (f6B+), which I’d previously fallen out of love with due to too many attempts. It’s all about the last move. Will need to do a bit of specific training I think. Managed a couple of new easier things for a good quick hit before driving south again.

Sat – nothing

Sunday – Spotted forecast was much better for Holyhead than the Peak so headed to Rhoscolyn. Started with Crack and Corner (VD) and Fan Fare (HVS 4c) with an eye on Fear Test (E3 5b). But made the decision to be sensible as my neck was hurting and general life stress levels too high. Did Truant Right Hand (E2 5b) which had bags of character, then seconded it to get gear out. Perfect day, photographing Silver Studded Blue butterflies on walk in, Choughs on walk out and finished with an ice cream from Sea Shanty Cafe in Trearddur Bay, all in the sunshine.

Reflection - Cricked my neck at the end of last week and so avoided any jarring running this week which was a shame. I did manage 3 climbing sessions so a good week.

In reply to AJM:

Good morning everyone. Hope you're all well.

Yep, sea level beach boulders. There is a little at the base of the crag, plus another popular outcrop somewhere too.

An okay week from me. Second half was good, pretty on it with the things I need to be doing, as well as a sensible yet productive session out on the rock. First half of the week was generally crap due to me being, at the time, generally crap. But I think I'm starting to get a grip at being less crap...

Last Week:

Avg weight 79.6kg.

M - Rest.

T - 19mm edge pulls with the resistance band.

W - Rest.

T - Rest. Unplanned, whoops!

F - 19mm F3HC pickups, 8x5s @ 16.25kg. A bit conservative perhaps but better safe than stupid.

S - Groin, hamstring and hip adductor stretches.

S - Gorlan (The Sheep Pen). A couple easy bits, and managed to repeat Klem's Bulge (V6) and The Pinch (V7) again. The latter was totally fine on the right middle, though the left middle did get a touch aggravated from a bony crimp. No further issue after being careful though. Worked the moves on Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter (V7), pretty decent on the finger. Probably too tired to link, but a horde of people showed up and it became a circus so I promptly evacuated anyway!

Next Week:

M - Stretches.

T - Rehab.

W - Stretches.

T - Rehab (maybe climbing too)

F - Stretches.

S, S - Climbing!

Goals:

Rehab left middle finger.

Rehab right middle finger.

Improve wrist mobility.

Improve lower body mobility.

Louisville Lip.

Rigpa.

Clever Beaver SDS.

In reply to AJM:

Week 28

M – Nothing but evening stretches; left shoulder in particular feeling effects of repeater session.

T – Boulder.  Played on something hard but was ultimately thwarted by the high humidity.  Still reckon I have a sequence?

W – Rest.

T – Boulder. Even greasier than Tuesday? I lowered the difficulty and did 20x easy BMs and a cheeky flash of a 7C BM.

F – Rest. Drive to Lakes for family and friends gathering. 

S – Barker Scar after cooking a mammoth fry up for 18. 6B, 6C+, 7A on sight warm ups.  Got pumped and fell off a 7A+ traverse.  Worked it. Worked Tidal Forces 7C+. RP'd the combination of these two, which is The Noodle Effect (f8A). Pretty psyched with that - 8A in a session at a new venue 😀 

S – Holiday.

In reply to AJM:

Hi folks. Thanks for statting, AJM.

A slightly odd week... the day plans went totally out of the window, but more or less completed the right number of planned sessions. Not as much climbing as originally planned. Need to pull my finger out and get more organised. Home board coming together, but this won't help me much for trad!

Week 28:

M: Climbing. Nice solo enchainment in Ogwen. The highlight was Overlapping Rib Route (a.k.a. First Pinnacle Rib) (D) with the Thomson's Chimney (HS 4b) finish. Thought TC was severe -probably wouldn't have soloed it if I'd seen it was HS, but I suspect severe is fair when it's dry (which it was)!

T: Rehab.

W: Strength & Core. Rehab.

T: A few more hours rebuilding the board. Pretty gruelling!

F: Finger strength. Rehab. Trail run. 6.7km, 173m vert, 5:46/km. Annoyingly short to fit between jobs that never happened.

S: Climbing. Quick solo at Pot Hole Quarry (Three Springs). Bit of a token session to try not to waste the dryness! Strength & Core. Rehab.

S: Trail run. 14.8km, 3m vert (tow path!), 5:25/km. 

Week 29:

M: Strength & Core.

T: Run. Rehab.

W: Climbing.

T: Climbing.

F: Strength & Core.

S: Climbing or Run.

S: Climbing or Run.

STG (end of August):

Get back to averaging 72kg from 76kg (down to 75).

Average 2 conditioning sessions per week.

Average 2.5 fingerboard sessions per week.

3 big VS mileage days.

Tick Trevor.

3 off E2 list including Hurricane

Yates' Layaway.

Eliminator.

In reply to all:

Some strong performances across the board this week. Quite a surprise given the weather. Well done everyone!

In reply to AJM:

A very quiet week. 

Did one strength session and a few dog walks. 

Back to it this week tho. Don't want to lose all my fitness as it was hard work getting it. 

Had a look at some Nepal climbs this week as I search for my next adventure but nothing jumping out at me currently.

Have a good week all

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

That’s what I was thinking, particularly about yourself. A couple of chunky bouldering days in there SSB

In reply to AJM:

Ive logged it each day, look!

A mixed week. Started off with a good session on Monday, did some decent ankle rehab through the week….. and then took a bit of a knock on Saturday. I missed my footing a little at some point whilst I was supervising the kids at the adventure playground, it didn’t hurt at the time but I also can’t think of anything else to trigger ankle soreness so I suppose it must have been that.
 

Set me back a bit, mentally as much as anything, and meant the weekend largely went to waste in terms of training achieved.

Feeling a bit better today. Whatever i did to it, the physio still seemed pleased with progress when I had a check in this morning, improved on several of the strength measurements etc. It’s still tight in the back of the joint, but I’ve been shifted onto some more one leg work and some dynamic stuff like jumping up and down, sidestep bounces and so on. 

Monday - fingerboard. 10s hangs on 10mm edges to about 87kg. Good progress.

Tuesday - good ankle rehab session

Wednesday - feeling whacked, rest

Thursday - good ankle rehab session. Tried fingerboarding, but it just wasn’t clicking. Never managed to get onto anything super heavy. High gravity/slippy holds day.

Friday - ankle rehab

Saturday - had intended to rest prior to climbing Sunday. Something I did made my ankle a bit sad and grumpy though, so whilst I did rest I also did a bit of moping and feeling sorry for myself

Sunday - ankle feeling a lot better but with my confidence in it knocked I decided that the walk in and attempt to climb plan felt unduly risky. So I pottered around home. Didn’t really do much.

In reply to AJM:

Impressive 87kg on the 10mm edges!  That has come around quite quickly!

Good work and sorry about the temporary ankle set-back.

In reply to AJM:

The place is probably one of the best in Eryri but I won’t bother to go back unless I am bouldering better or in a group which makes the logistics a bit more palatable 

Unfortunately the crag has one very good 6c+, one classic 7c and this 7b so there’s limited interest among partners, I’ll just have to seize my moment when it comes!

Another week of dragging DIY (although a rare victory on this front hence the picture).

Tue: Fi and I managed to grab a brief break in the weather to do a circular walk based on the Nantlle Ridge (Grade-1) which has been on the list for ages and it was nice to get something out of a miserable day. 
Friday: I made multiple holes in my finger pads trying a newish filler in route at LPT. It’s very bouldery and conditions dependant. I think I have a sequence for the crux but only managed it with the rope above me. If it is a working method then the route should go next visit (conditions depending) but if I’ve not actually done the move then god knows!

S: Quick walk up Crimpiau from Capel Curig between showers

S: Taped up fingers for Biscuit Face but blood/tape combo meant I kept slipping off the crux. I’m now on a vicious circle of failing to climb because of skin and skin failing to heal because of climbing. I wish there was a way out of this dilemma….

In reply to AJM:

Thank you AJM,

Quieter week for me, with just a couple of shunting sessions.

W - Avon session, shunted a few vertical ones on the ramp, attempting to go reasonably slowly to force operating with a reasonable pump.

S - Cheddar session on steep rock at around 8a, all felt a bit much for me, but acted as a bit of an eye opener on how much stronger I would need to be to do that sort of thing. 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM. I’m grateful for the resonance here – and have to note that my hesitancy at times stems from long-past experiences. So posting here is also about redressing a rather destructive and isolating imprinted behaviour / cognitive pattern…
At present my goal is to just keep things ticking over: at least 1 wall session a week, complemented by stretching, hang boarding, etc. and a hike to get the legs / stamina into shape for autumn.

Mon: boulder session, lots of easy boulders…
Tue: stretching
Wed: climbing, Thalkirchen, 7 routes – 3 routes in limit grades; added 4 autobelay routes post partner session; moved well…the heat was sapping; was nicely attuned with what was going on inwardly – in fact, if I mention the meltdowns, then also deserving of mention are those moments of ‘self-connection’. Fortunate to experience it during this session – felt like entering / being in a different world, and to do this while at a relatively crowded climbing wall, all the better 😊
Thu: stretching & light strength training
Fri: brief hang board session before vaccination shot for Nepal; felt quite strong
Sat: weeding fields – lots of bending; long stretching session in the afternoon
Sun: hike, Kaiser Mountains, very long but only moderate in elevation; nice day out…felt a bit sore Mon morning…

Good week for all.

In reply to AJM:

Full trip report later, but here’s what I didn’t expect: I come on a climbing holiday to the arctic, and it’s far too hot to climb in the sun

In reply to AJM:

Full trip report later, but here’s what I didn’t expect: I come on a climbing holiday to the arctic, and it’s far too hot to climb in the sun

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the stats Andy.

Weight - 13st 12lbs
STG - 50 mile ultra

MTG - Winter ultra

LTG - 100 mile ultra next July

BHAG - F7A boulder somewhere / kickflip

M - Rest

T - Rest

W - Rest

T - Rest

F - Rest

S - 2k run

S - Rest

Weekly kms - 2 kms

Diet status - Pretty good

Quiet week.  Didn't feel like rushing out to start running.  Recovered pretty quickly after that to be honest.  Over the worst of it by Tuesday.  Sunday wasn't much fun, but other than that.  Could have probably gone out climbing, on Wednesday, but had arranged to meet a mate and play boardgames on Wednesday.  Which was lovely.  Had a bit of a twingey big toe for most of the week.  But it's all fine now.  However I have been a bit coldey all week.  Nothing terrible, just full of snot and very tired.  Hopefully going to get back into things next week.  Booked into a 50 miler at the end of September.  With the aim of doing a 100 miler next year.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy,

Slow reply I'm afraid. Had a very busy week at work, a full five days leggings up and down two flights of stairs, so pretty knackered.

Did  ME massage and spinal twists etc every day.

Two sessions with the pulse gun on the stomach and legs

One session of lunges and static long jumps on Saturday 

Did some hangs, or rather tried to. 2sec in the big slots on the BM. This is huge progress as I couldn't hang anything at all a few weeks back

The lunges were ok, did a few sets forwards and backwards but the jumps? Blimey. Can just about jump my body length after warming up but it destroyed me! My core was hurting next morning. It's supposed to show how much power you have, so I did alright but definitely something to work on. Slight niggle on my right Achilles, an old injury, so I'll have to watch that.

Just about managing a full day at work 5 days a week - goal is to be able to do some exercise or chores after.

Weight was about 4½kg down so far, so not complaining - eating a lot more protein because I was basically eating around 30g a day most days. Feeling stronger for it already.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM and sorry for the late posting. Just another crazy week at work has left me with little time for anything else.

From a training point of view another uneventfull week. Still trying to get 2-3 sessions in which is doable but challenging at the moment. Anything more would be counterproductive as i won't be able to recover from the sessions. Hopefully things will improve in a couple of weeks which should still be enough to get in shape for the autumn season.