Rockfax Description
The classic of the crag with superb sustained climbing and just enough gear. Start up the thin cracks 5m right of the square hole. Step right when the going gets tough and move up to a ledge. Finish more easily above. © Rockfax
FA. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths, M.Harber, C.Parkin 08/Jun/1985.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Best slab climbs of the UK , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Pembroke North
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rick Sewards | 29 Dec, 2023 |
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βeta: Beg, borrow or steal every small brass thing you can lay your hands on - both straight and offset if possible. | ||
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βeta: Beg, borrow or steal every small brass thing you can lay your hands on - both straight and offset if possible. |
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Frank the Husky | 19 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Agreed, best done without the route being chalked up...a fine and absorbing experience! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agreed, best done without the route being chalked up...a fine and absorbing experience! |
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Fiend | 10 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: An excellent route that is considerably more feasible than it looks from below - best climbed before it gets chalked! Mild for the grade with brass offsets, even without it wouldn't be too bad - just one rather bold rockover just where the gear isn't. Unsustained in climbing but definitely sustained in quality. | βeta? | |
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βeta: An excellent route that is considerably more feasible than it looks from below - best climbed before it gets chalked! Mild for the grade with brass offsets, even without it wouldn't be too bad - just one rather bold rockover just where the gear isn't. Unsustained in climbing but definitely sustained in quality. |
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Furzy Sleight | 7 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: yes very good route indeed | βeta? | |
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βeta: yes very good route indeed |
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Alun | 12 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Slab climbing at its very best. After the first gear, the climbing is runout, sustained 5c for the next 20 foot or so, with the psychological and technical crux move moving up and right to a completely bomber nut slot, which you will be delighted to see. The holds are small but all very positive, so that it never really feels desparate. From the bomber slot the climbing is continously interesting and well-protected, with a steep but easy finish. A magnificent route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Slab climbing at its very best. After the first gear, the climbing is runout, sustained 5c for the next 20 foot or so, with the psychological and technical crux move moving up and right to a completely bomber nut slot, which you will be delighted to see. The holds are small but all very positive, so that it never really feels desparate. From the bomber slot the climbing is continously interesting and well-protected, with a steep but easy finish. A magnificent route. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)