The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Ants In My Legloops. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
The thin crack in the wall right of a leaning corner is an enjoyable pitch that is best undertaken during a dry spell. Scramble up to a belay under a slab 3m to the right of the lower section of the leaning corner. Head up slabs to the crack and follow it past a sapling to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Scramble up from the right to trees at the base of the slab a few feet right of the corner. Climb easily for 3m. Make harder moves up to reach runner placements where the crack starts. Climb the crack steeply to a large ash, then follow the widening crack easily up rightwards.
FA. Cerberus Speleological Society 1992.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Bristol Crack School , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol) , Somerset Sufferfest
User | Date | Notes | ||
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quis | 9 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Abseil point on a tree to the left as you top out. Can reach the ground on a doubled-up 60m rope | βeta? | |
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βeta: Abseil point on a tree to the left as you top out. Can reach the ground on a doubled-up 60m rope |
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Tall Oak | 26 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Added spice with a bees / wasps nest in the left flanks of the crack going up. Word of warning for those going up the overhanging crack to the left. Cool route however. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Added spice with a bees / wasps nest in the left flanks of the crack going up. Word of warning for those going up the overhanging crack to the left. Cool route however. |
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JLT | 10 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Definitely a Summer Route. Did on a dry, sunny day in November, but still damp due to never getting the sun in Winter. | ||
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βeta: Definitely a Summer Route. Did on a dry, sunny day in November, but still damp due to never getting the sun in Winter. |
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Mr MRS | 23 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: The crux seemed to be making it to the actual wall over all the slippy and muddy grass. Get some gear in early even if that first bit seems like an easy scramble. | ||
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βeta: The crux seemed to be making it to the actual wall over all the slippy and muddy grass. Get some gear in early even if that first bit seems like an easy scramble. |
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