Rockfax Description
An excellent addition. Traverse the lip from a hanging start on the right (foot on a flat hold at the back of the roof) to eventually join Tom's Traverse. Mantel off the finishing jug on Tom's Traverse to finish. Finishing earlier via the mantel on Quite Heinous is Feldspar Fracas Mantel Finish (f7A+). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Located on Tom's Traverse boulder. Start on Flake on the right (facing) of boulder and toe on square hold beneath roof. Stay on holds along top of boulder (slopers and crystals). Stay high i.e. on same level as move onto slopers above Toms Traverse. Finish on finishing hold of Tom's traverse (mantle). Quite long so probably deserves a route grade? More pumpy than technical.
Bruce Kirby 11/Nov/2016.
The Art of the Granite Crab , Devon's Sevens
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Grade: f7A ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)