Climbs 15
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces SW
This is the "25 metre buttress .... with potential" on Foel Wen mentioned by Martin Crocker in Meirionnydd 2002. Unnamed in the guidebook, its correct name is, quite appropriately, CRAIG LWYD UCHAF (Upper Grey Crag).
Easily accessible and in plain sight, yet inexplicably neglected, the crag has now yielded a number of surprisingly good and very worthwhile climbs on excellent rock which are between 5m - 25m in length. All routes bar one are on gritstone; the exception is on absolutely perfect quartzite.
Well-positioned with a very sunny aspect, the crag can be quickly accessed via the Cilcychwyn manganese mine FP; about 20 minutes from off-road parking by Pont Cerrig on the road to the Cwm Nantcol roadhead.
This crag isn't described in the 2002 guide, but it'll have definitive coverage in the new Welsh Grit guide which is currently in production.
Voluntary seasonal climbing restriction to protect nesting peregrines: 1st MARCH - 15th JULY. As the cliff isn't very big, the restriction is best applied to the whole cliff during this period.
There are no comments from visitors to this crag. |
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