Rockfax Description
One of the Lake District's highest and most exposed VSs. Start from a belay at a wide crack in the middle of the face.
1) 4c, 25m. Start 3m left of the wide crack and climb confidently up the wall past a good hold until a move right gains the base of a pinnacle. Climb up past the pinnacle until a step right reaches another crack system that leads to a belay in a wide slot. Large cams are needed for the belay. Alternatively, take a hanging stance a little lower on a spike and other gear.
2) 4c, 34m. Step right to a crack and follow it to the base of the upper groove. Finish up the groove. If the groove is wet, take the crack on the left to the arete and finish up it in a very exposed position. Both finishes are superb. © Rockfax
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Hard Rock , Great VS Climbs in the Lake District , Best slab climbs of the UK , MIA logbook must haves! , Select VS Climbs in the Lake District , UK Classic Corners , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , FRCC Mega Classics , One day multipitch , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , EUMC - Must do climbs , Nuts of Legends , Hard Rock 2020 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Big Routes 2020 , 2020/21 Trips , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , Hard Rock & Other Classics , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lakes Hard Rock , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Consolidation VS-HVS , Lake District To Do List , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist , Cumbria for the Recreational User
User | Date | Notes | ||
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franhammond92 | 15 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Not sure what the large cams to belay would be for. Solid wires and normal size cams available for belaying once stood on the chockstones | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not sure what the large cams to belay would be for. Solid wires and normal size cams available for belaying once stood on the chockstones |
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EA_Mountain_Skills | 8 Feb, 2023 |
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βeta: Phenomenal. First pitch just keeps coming. Second pitch I’d probably go to the arête next time. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Phenomenal. First pitch just keeps coming. Second pitch I’d probably go to the arête next time. |
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simoncov | 28 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Found good nuts for belay in the slot instead of Wrongfax’s “big cams”. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found good nuts for belay in the slot instead of Wrongfax’s “big cams”. |
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AC1 | 6 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Climbed this in September 2021. We both do a lot of winter climbing, and some routes handle the wear and tear of crampons and axes well (Eagle Ridge, the Ben classics) but not this route. It's a great summer climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed this in September 2021. We both do a lot of winter climbing, and some routes handle the wear and tear of crampons and axes well (Eagle Ridge, the Ben classics) but not this route. It's a great summer climb. |
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joe.91 | 22 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Would appreciate not having the loose melon shaped blocks above kicked off nearly killing 1 in 4 people. | ||
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βeta: Would appreciate not having the loose melon shaped blocks above kicked off nearly killing 1 in 4 people. |
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gav | 20 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Some very loose blocks at the exit to the groove finish - take care! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some very loose blocks at the exit to the groove finish - take care! |
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K Farrell | 20 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Lots of loose stuff at the top of the v notch above this route. All very precariously balanced. Please be careful when walking around on the top, we had a rock dislodged on us. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of loose stuff at the top of the v notch above this route. All very precariously balanced. Please be careful when walking around on the top, we had a rock dislodged on us. |
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superturbo | 1 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Large cams are not required for the belay as stated in guidebook | ||
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βeta: Large cams are not required for the belay as stated in guidebook |
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George Mitson | 23 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Some loose blocks in the middle of the route. | ||
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βeta: Some loose blocks in the middle of the route. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Pillar)